Cameroon

It was a late night as we ended up at the Paradise club. The African dance troupe was interesting, left about 02:00 but Paul and Mary Lou were out until 04:00. So we had rather a late start even though I was up at 07:30. Left at 10:00 by way of the drill ranch for route information. They’re sponsored by the ffPs. Peter’s info was right on. The road until Oban was quite badly broken but thereafter was good tarmac to the border taking us until 13:30. Cleared Nigerian customs with no hassle although they did want proof that we had changed money. Bank receipt was enough. Spent our last Naira and crossed over into Cameroon. The customs officer was a little sh*t and drunk. He wasn’t going to sign The Girls’ carnet then he wanted everything out of the vehicles. Fortunately Mike & Mary Lou had met his boss in the pub and he returned just as we were resigning ourselves to camping at the border. It still took until 17:30 to get through then onto a fairly good but water worn dirt road for 1 hour to find the lake just as was getting dark. One moment when dropped into a rut and the vehicle tipped well over. Have been troubled by a sore ear all day. Also the speedo is not reliable, the 126 km to the border clocked up 98.

The Landie returns to Cameroon.

A slow day’s driving made psychologically slower by the underreading speedo. Arrived in Mamfe at about 11:30 and spent time exchanging CFA West for CFA Central and exchanging travellers cheques. No commission for FF. After Mamfe, where we bought a map for 3000 CFA and had lunch at Data Bar, we continued towards Bamenda. The first 17km were along the main road and were OK. But thereafter got steadily worse. Fortunately was very dry because some of the holes were deeper than the vehicle. One stretch took us on a detour to avoid a broken down lorry. How long had it been there? Mike also had a moment at the end of the day when he got the vehicle well over. The dust is back and the roadside veg is coated in the brown dust making it look dead. Mountains are starting to appear in the mist.

A very slow day over some badly rutted roads. Speedo may be working better but difficult to be sure. Scenery changes slowly during the day from forested tracks to more open grassland. Quite cold in the evening. Have got into avocado territory, green and purple ones.

Stopped short of Bamenda for the night. Was getting populated so tried a hotel for camping, but wanted 1000 CFA/person. Ended up in the grounds of a school and had the usual audience. Wouldn’t mind but they’re rarely interesting. The local school teacher came along and did supply some useful information on what we had been eating. Coco yams and maize (not sweetcorn). Also bought meat and had a barbecue. Half the party went off to the local pub to return after midnight, noisy and well drunk.

A cold night. Outside temp 10°C at 07:00. Slept on the roof and sleeping bag got very damp from dew. People slow to get started again and did not leave until 10:00 despite not having anything cooked. Got to Bamenda and had another prolonged stop shopping and breakfast. Local supermarket well stocked, bought 5kg of pasta for 2500CFA.

From Bamenda went looking for a crater lake. Road tarmac but very hilly. Superb views over Bamenda, a large town. Got to the turnoff and followed the track but were stopped, temporarily by a barrier across the road. Got past that but were finally stopped by a fallen tree.

Mike, Paul and Kevin walked on, the rest turned round to investigate a side track further back. Found the lake and another party, one Swiss bloke and three girls. Lake is beautiful, surrounded by trees. Went for a swim, quite cold. About 17:00 Mike and Kevin turned up having walked round. Returned Mike to his truck then back for dinner. Fire very smoky. Slept on the roof again.

A busy day. Up at 06:30 and away just after 07:00. Good road to Bafouesam but had to wait for The Girls at Mbouda as their clutch had lost all fluid - gave us a chance to get breakfast. Passed through Bafouesam without stopping and the road got potholed. Quite scenic, almost Tuscany with houses with red tiled roofs (actually corrugated iron covered in red dust). Extensive road widening going on but no actual improvement to the road. Got to Foumbam about 11:30 and had breakfast at a hotel. Then went out to investigate the palace. Was actually closed for lunch but a party of tourists was enough to open it up. Interesting museum of the kings going back to 1393 (?) Most noticeable was the giant king 2.6m tall. After that went to the village of artisans. Again an interesting museum. Then visited one of the shops. Store keeper was stupid (?) quoting 20,000 CFA for a pipe (We had seen better in the museum quoted for 6,000). I genuinely wasn’t interested but eventually bought the pair for 2,000. Still not sure I like them but they’ll do as a present. Left Foumban at 15:00 and made some distance along the dirt road to Bayo. Good condition but a few potholes. Again waited for The Girls as they had a flat. Stopped for the night in a gravel pit. Mossies are back.

Bar owner chased us to return bottles (?)

Not sure the permethrin is working on the net. Woke up with three mossies on the outside - perhaps they had just landed. Back on the road at 07:15 only one full jerry on the roof now. Road fairly good and predictable but a few washed out sections. Still a lot of up and down in the route and very Mediterranean looking. Unfortunately this is a Moslem area and the locals have adopted Arabic dress, jelaba and fez hats, it’s depressing. Stop in Banyo for lunch but it’s a nothing place. Disturb a monkey on the road but no other wildlife. Have an enforced stop at 15:00 when The Girls Landie stops with fuel problems, turned out to be the points but had to endure the annual banquet of black flies as we waited. Got to Tibati just after four but unfortunately it’s Australian day so it’s straight to a pub. It’s getting dark by the time we leave and when we get to the Norwegian mission it’s way too expensive; 4000CFA/person. Return to town (the pub) where Mike, Mary Lou and myself get ripped off for an unpalatable meal of plantain and meat (450CFA). Get back to the pub to find The Girls have located a catholic mission with rooms for 1000CFA per night. Retire at 22:30

An easier day. Late lie getting up at 08:30. Morning spent on the vehicle. Topped up gear oil.

Replaced the old speedo cable but didn’t get it located properly so no speedo all day. Mike took his away and did an oil change and also replaced an injector as he is getting knocking noises again.

The passenger under seat tank is leaking so transferred that to the main tank. Under vehicle checks all seem OK. Left the mission about 14:00. All the time there was one African hanging around - it really annoys me I don’t want or need his help and I’m surely not going to give him a shirt for being there. Is this begging a feature of the Moslem world?.

Road was tarmac again and made good distance towards the border before stopping for the night in a clearing off the road. A nice spot. Sorted the speedo cable but still isn’t right - must be the speedo head.

Passed some burning grassland and the road was covered with turquoise birds - waiting for what the fire flushed.

Pacing ourselves for the border. Started at 07:00 after jump starting Mike’s Landie. Made Meidougou but there was nothing there so made a detour up to Meigoingra for breakfast (omelette) and shopping in the market. Better than some but not great. Also filled up everything again. I took 154l, Mike 140 for a total of 49,600 CFA. Leaves us a bit short of CFA seeing the bank in town was closed and the next 160km up the road. Turned round and headed on to Garoua Boulai. Stopped at a site mentioned in Bryden’s book . Not quite as he paints it but will do. Stopped for the day at 13:00. At 17:00 Al, Kev & Hilary disappear off to get some beers. Dinner is cooked and eaten and still they don’t return. At 21:00 concern is sufficient for a search party to set out only to find them in the nearest bar.

A most frustrating day. Got to the border town in good time and bought bread and bananas. Cameroon formalities took very little time and we were soon in CAR. The border police took 1000 CFA / Person for passport formalities and still took an age and inspected the contents of the vehicles. Then Health had a go and complained that not everybody had mengivac. Got away from that and were immediately stopped by police - we weren’t wearing our seatbelts - 4000CFA. Customs was refreshingly simple. But still we were stopped for vehicle checks, lights etc. Got through until Baboua where there was a major check. Straight forward but 1/2 mile further on there was another police check. I’m sure they set it up as we were processed at the main check. Got me for ‘Lack of respect for the red triangles’ and Mike for not having water in the windscreen washer. They wanted 20,000CFA (£50) but we didn’t have any and despite taking us back to the main office we persevered and got away with it. But this country is stupid

Camped on a rough track from the main road.