Central African Republic (CAR)

A most frustrating day. Got to the border town in good time and bought bread and bananas. Cameroon formalities took very little time and we were soon in CAR. The border police took 1000 CFA / Person for passport formalities and still took an age and inspected the contents of the vehicles. Then Health had a go and complained that not everybody had mengivac. Got away from that and were immediately stopped by police - we weren’t wearing our seatbelts - 4000CFA. Customs was refreshingly simple. But still we were stopped for vehicle checks, lights etc. Got through until Baboua where there was a major check. Straight forward but 1/2 mile further on there was another police check. I’m sure they set it up as we were processed at the main check. Got me for ‘Lack of respect for the red triangles’ and Mike for not having water in the windscreen washer. They wanted 20,000CFA (£50) but we didn’t have any and despite taking us back to the main office we persevered and got away with it. But this country is stupid

Camped on a rough track from the main road.

A slower start as we took time for breakfast of coffee and porridge in case we couldn’t get lunch. Got started but only a few Km down the road were stopped for the first checkpoint. Decided The Girls should have two triangles despite the book contradicting them. We got ready for a long wait but before the kettle had boiled they decided that we should buy a 2nd triangle in Bangui. Got to Boaur and changed 400FF so we could buy lunch. Quite expensive. Some Peace Corps girls gave us an address in Bangui and also info on the road. Trouble has broken out in Zaire so stopped at a French army camp to find out what they knew. Doesn’t sound good. Carried on and were stopped 3 or 4 times. Police getting friendlier and also less persistent. Got us for not wearing seatbelts again but ‘we have no money’ and fairly quickly we are waved on. One section of road was newly graded and absolutely excellent, 80Kph stuff. The Girls broke down again - electrics. Made camp in the bush at about 17:00. Thought today was the rugby international but not reported. Africa focus only mentions trouble in Kinshasa- perhaps up river will be OK.

Can now move to map 955

And on we go. Hit the first checkpoint in the lead at about 08:00. But the guy is cool. Do your light work? Yes! OK on you go. Stopped at the market to get some bread and then headed on for Bossembele. Got there midmorning and found two British vehicles ahead. Not very chatty but we found out they had just paid 15,000 CFA because one chap hadn’t been wearing a shirt. They started saying we should have 2 triangles each but they settled on the fact that The Girls had a broken wing mirror. 90 minutes later we buy them a beer each and carry on. Got to the Boali falls early afternoon. Really good, with a wide spread and strong flow. Had a swim and got cleaned up then a couple of beers. Got down the road a bit and set up camp in a rubber tree(?) plantation. Situation in Zaire is not good. The F.O. is advising British nationals to leave. The trouble seems concentrated in Kinshasa but the advise covers all of Zaire.

Got a very early start to allow for PK12. Got there and cleared in 15 minutes. Very straight, no bother. Then found the Peace Corps auberge and were settled in by 09:00. 1000CFA/person/night. The landlady gave us some alarming warnings about the city so when we went in to change money were in defence formation. A bit like PK12; an anticlimax. Got the money and had a look round then breakfast at the patisserie. Met the Brits with the Cherokee who told us Rob & Simon were waiting for us at the campsite. Made our way there and had a couple of beers catching up with them. I got back to have a shower but the others stayed. Met them again (drunk) at the restaurant and then lost them as they disappeared to the Marine’s Club, leaving me locked out of my own car. The first returned at 03:00 and the rest at 04:00. Did not get much sleep.

A frustrating day. Got up and had an omelette at the food stall, then Mary Lou and I went looking for info. Zaire embassy is issuing visas, so got application forms. Went from there to find the British Consulate, eventually traced to a secretary at the local cigarette factory and ‘You probably know more than me’.

Got the engine out of The Girls LR and find they have been sent another Series III plate. Mike and I should be OK for clutch plates.

It’s very hot so work away slowly. Remove the whole front spring to do the bush, quite easy really. Kev is still fighting with his clutch.

Apply for our visas and get them in a couple of hours. Al may apply tomorrow. AC and Paul almost certainly won’t. Hilary and Caroline have decided to come along as long as they won’t be forced into taking the long route. Kevin and I give an assurance we will go the short route if they feel at Buta that it is best. I’d prefer the long route. Little news from Zaire.

Try to get to the Marines’ Club in the evening but it is shut. ‘We are expecting a visit’. Get thirteen people in the taxi back to town and are stopped by the police. There is a French cop, so manage to get off. Give up and head back but the rest go onto a club. A number of items (including Kev’s sleeping bag) are stolen from the lawn during the night.

A fairly slow day. Breakfast at the street stall of omelette and coffee. Al applies for his visa then starts on the kitty. Write letters to ESAC and home but my heart is not in it. The trip is breaking up. Paul and AC are out despite not getting a cheap trip from the missionaries. I feel I’ve failed but I can do nothing to persuade them to come. It’s not the Zaire situation that’s just one factor.

People very lethargic from last night. Slowly manage to get everything together and the kitty finally settled. Then slowly, slowly get the money changed and the vehicle packed. Get off to a good start by reversing into the warden’s car breaking an indicator lens - 5,000 CFA. Am then told two vehicles are going to town and the other two to the airport. Breakdown in communication, eventually meet back at the auberge. Farewells to Paul and AC, I’m really sorry that we’ve failed to provide the trip they wanted but I can do nothing more.

Leave about 12:30 with Kim an American as a temporary passenger. PK12 is straight forward and we quickly get up the road to Sibut. Find I’ve left one of the bleed screws on the pump loose so lose a little fuel. Engine also idles rough - suspect the diesel may have kerosene in it. Set up camp at about 18:00 and are soon invaded by local kids. Kim’s Polaroid is very popular.

That fuel is bad. Idles very rough. OK after fill up at Bambari. Spend some time there running round for Kim. The two people he knows are in Bangui but eventually find a Peace Corps volunteer and part company. Carry on to Kembi. Road dirt but very good allowing speeds of 60/70 kph. Have one stop because The Girls loose clutch fluid and one stop because the V8 is down on power. Passing coffee plantations and cotton. Approaching Bambari looked like they were burning the cotton? Price too low?. Mike managed to kill a sheep, which is being carried off the road as we approach. Clouds of butterflies on sections of the road. Arrive at Kembi approx. 16:00 allowing time for a quick swim and to listen to the rugby. France 11, Scotland 3; Wales 10, England 9, end of England’s grand slam run. Falls right on the road, visible from the bridge. The full convoy is here, truck plus NL LR, and the Toyota contingent.

Work day again. Replaced the front bush on the other front spring. Slowly. Also tried bleeding the brakes again. No change. Resoldered a connection on the windscreen washer pump. Wheel bearing on front nearside is a bit loose. Need to keep an eye on it. Finished about mid day then went for a swim then did some washing. Read Ulysses again for an hour. Slow going. Have a beer at the hotel around the corner.

Ho hum.. Early start, 05:30 up. Delayed by Rob & Simon’s burnt out ignition circuit. Got the lead today and arrive in Bangassu just before 08:30. Have breakfast and locate the ferry. 5000CFA for a pirogue and 5l diesel per vehicle. Got worse after that. Customs stamp the carnet in short order then ask for 4000 CFA per vehicle. Or wait till tomorrow. Get passports stamped for free and wait it out. Office shut at 13:30. Come back tomorrow. So we went to the bar and spent the difference.

Pat joins us from the truck on a deal of £10/day.

Up and off. Breakfast at the stalls of omelette and coffee. Douane is shut so wait outside till they turn up at about 08:00 then down to the river. Simon is pissed off because he was going to go across alone with some diesel and fetch the ferry. He went the wrong way.. Negotiate with the chief on the price of a pirogue crossing and get across for 1500CFA, some deodorant and my straw hat. (Thanks Richard). Then have to negotiate with the ferry skipper and get 4 vehicle for 200FF. In the mean time we have patched up a crew member who slashed his foot. Get across the river first and drive up to the dilapidated customs building. Then it starts.

The immigration officer manages to purloin $100 from me and $50 + £20 from Pat before we realise what he’s up to. Manage to get that back by pure luck and lack of brass neck on his part. Meanwhile Rob & Simon are informed their visa has expired - $100 each to get an entry stamp. Move on to customs and they want $6 for each camera, a scam I think especially when the last permit was issued in 1989. But for $6, I’m too tired and pay. Get Z20,000,000 in change.

Vehicles are then inspected and the two who paid get through fairly easily. Mike’s is inspected carefully and they find one of the four cameras in Rob & Simon’s. Meanwhile the truck has arrived to be informed 5000CFA/vehicle for overtime on the carnet. We make off and manage to get 25km into Zaire before the end of the day. Spend the evening bartering with the locals.