Cote d'Ivoire

A most disturbed night due to the pulled muscle. Flat on my back is best but still an aching pain. Couldn’t drive as the position was agony - sharp pains - so Ann Claude took the wheel for the first stretch which was good tarmac all the way to Bougouni. A police checkpoint there where they questioned the authenticity of our insurance. Sure a photocopy could be a forgery. It is. He made his point, we got away with it. Then on to a dirt track where AC was very timid and gentle with the car, but also very slow. After an hour I took over as in the warmer conditions my leg was feeling better.

Drove all the way to the border at Manakoro. Scenery very dry though grass is a lot higher and more trees. A lot of burning in progress which makes it even more unattractive. Police and Customs at Morokoro very friendly. Almost makes up for Nioro. Shame couldn’t spend longer in Mali; but so poor.

Cote d’Ivoire customs very quick, both in location and processing. Had intended to camp before but were on them before we realised. The boss was training up a junior, but no hassle. Camped shortly after and I immediately got flat to kill the pain. Did what chores I could in short breaks.

First night under the mossie net.

Another disturbed night due to my leg. Cannot get comfortable. If the buttock is relaxed then the calve muscle gives me gyp. Broke camp late as Mike was strengthening the windscreen of his truck as cracks have appeared in the frame. Mike’s Landie and my body both too old for this.

Set off about 09:00 and almost immediately hit the police checkpoint. Very free and easy, no attempt to get bribes. Drove onto Odienne. Dirt road all the way but very good. No potholes. Ann Claude driving. At Odienne got lunch of bread and bananas. Drove out through a checkpoint then found an off track to have lunch. Next to a plantation of six leafed plants. Look familiar but can’t place them (manioc). By now were on an excellent tarmac road of European standard. I was driving to give AC a break. Running low on fuel, stopped twice to transfer a jerry to the running tank. AC took over and was doing fine until she hit a dog. Nothing that could be done, it ran out to see a truck going the other way and didn’t notice us. We couldn’t swerve to avoid it. Stopped at 17:00, 40 km short of Man to discuss camp plans. Paul and I wanted to find a good spot soon. Mike to eat in Man and Alan to push on to a waterfall. Ended up later at a missionary C.A.M.P. (what does it stand for?). A little bit of heaven. Like an alpine pasture with cabins. Were allocated a cabin for the night, 2500CFA/person isn’t cheap but what luxury after two months camping. Unfortunately I can’t really appreciate it as soon as we stop I need to get flat on my back to ease the pain. Scenery is improving with some relief and the vegetation getting thicker and greener.

Heavy rain overnight.

Left the haven of CAMP (Camp Alpine Missionary Protestant) at about 11:30. This gave me more time to rest my leg. Still giving great pain. The only comfortable position is the recovery position and try getting that in the truck. Sorry to leave CAMP, I’d have paid for another night but we press on. AC driving.

Stop in Man for fuel and some food then keep driving. Mike is disappointed that we are taking the tarmac to the beach rather than visiting Tai national Park. But we are again short of time and with my leg I want the easiest route possible. Scenery is tropical but with very little variety. Locals use the side of the road to dry everything, cocoa to clothes. Cross the dammed Sassandra river and head South for Issia. South of Issia at about 17:00 we start to look for a camp and end up 2 km from the road on the edge of a cocoa plantation. The others go to befriend the natives, a couple from Ghana and Bukima Faso. I collapse in my tent in agony.

A miracle! Wake up lying on my right side, then on my back and no pain. Perhaps Paul was right and it was a disk problem which has slipped back. Have a bit of numbness in my lower leg but otherwise basically OK.

Have breakfast with the locals, Paul takes a photo then we head off. Though have seen pineapple, cocoa and manioc growing and now know the noisy, screaming, nocturnal animal is an Oya.

Continue for San Pedro where we arrive midday. Some stands of what looks like primary forest but most is secondary growth. Morning started very misty but clears through day. I am having battery problems, needed a jump start this morning. Mike has now broken a fan belt.

Spend quite a lot of time disappearing down coconut plantation tracks looking for the village of Pelou (?) where the rough guide reports cheap beach huts. Eventually find them, a little run down but the opinion is at 1000CFA/person they’re worth it.

Eat in the village at night of fish and rice for 500 CFA. Could be a lot worse though get the impression it’s going to be difficult to prize Paul away from the beach. With Christmas/New Year we will have a good break but still need to ensure are ready to travel thereafter.

Once settled this is really nice. The locals prepare green coconuts for us to drink and eat. Very deft with the machete.

A restful day. Morning spent in the hammock and reading. In the afternoon we go to the next village where there is some dancing. Not too impressive. Go into Tabou for some beers and are stopped by an inquisitive whispering policeman. Get back to camp for more coconuts. Breakfast was a huge bowl of mussels washed down with palm wine. Evening more fish and rice. Locals are cool and very friendly.

Leg shows little change. Still numb and uncomfortable but easily bearable compared with how it was.

Spend the day in leisure. Too hot and humid to do much. Was shown how palm wine is collected by one of the locals. Cut down the palm tree then prepare the trunk so the sap oozes out.

Changed the fan belt as the old one was loose and starting to break up. Hope this cures the starting problems. Am now certain that the split charge will discharge the main battery if the alternator is not generating more than the demand.

Are being fed with more than I can eat in fresh mussels, manioc, mangoes, coconuts (green & ripe), oranges, fish. Evening meal similar to others but fish more like tuna.

A slow start as I expected. I was stuffed so skipped breakfast and got water purified and the car packed. Some extensive negotiations on who we pay what. Nester is straight 1000 CFA / night + 500 CFA for food. A really good deal. The question is over the others who supplied food, showed us around etc. Leave them with 2000 CFA and some presents, one inner tube, one water jerry, some fishing line and unintentionally, Mike’s machete. He was very lax about the contents of his car and nearly forgot his hammock. Get out on the tarmac and cruise to Grand Berebi where we arrive about midday. Then spend some time sussing the place and end up at Hotel Campment, 5000CFA/night for one double room and the other three on the beach.

Order some langoustine for dinner then go to the Maquis bar for a late lunch of spaghetti and caramel bananas.

This place is different from Talou. There is a very up-market compound Baie d’Siren. Airstrip close by, very expensive and exclusive but the village itself is fairly typical Cote d’Ivoire. For how much longer?

Christmas Day on the beach. Just another day to me, the way I prefer Christmas. Paul gets off to a good start by falling off the toilet and gashing his arm. A quick bit of 1st Aid sees him OK. Snorkel out to some rocks some 200 yds offshore and spend some time duck diving. Not great but would be nice to have some gear to explore properly. A reasonable variety of small colourful fish particularly one beautiful small blue ones. Some evidence of coral, mainly fan corals. Vis pretty bad with a lot of sand and silt. Couple of crayfish of fair size but couldn’t relocate them. Afternoon spent at the Maquis having another lunch of spag & bananas. It’s a good place, the people running it are a French couple who travelled overland 3 months ago, arrived ten days after it opened and took the job to fill in.

Christmas dinner of fresh lobster followed by half of Mum’s cake. It has survived well. The others had had a few beers by this stage and the evening discussions were less than rational at times.

Another day on the beach. Move down to the Maquis for breakfast (just a coffee) and spend most of the day there. Some time spent reading up on the countries to come. Wrote a letter to Comtext, will send it sometime. The fish market started up in the middle of the afternoon when the larger pirogues returned. Unloaded into metal dishes which were brought ashore and two or three of each were thrown into separate buckets as if a landing tax. The fish were then heaped up for auction. Took a few photos after changing the battery of the Nikon. Meter had been left on. Careless

Thought I was going to stay dry until just after 07:00 when a heavy shower came through. The roof wasn’t up to it so I bolted for my tent. Got up at about 08:00 and packed the car then waited for the rest. Settled the bill with the hotel. They are very lax and forget to charge for cooking the lobster, so we save 2500 CFA plus a number of beers over the three days. Tighten up the fan belt as it seems to have stretched. Set off towards Sassandra but with about 50 km to go we turn of to (Mombonga?) on the coast and find a hut for 2000CFA. Fine but it leaves a long drive tomorrow. The fan belt also self destructed on the way down the track so I put the old one back on. Seemingly the one Mike gave me was one we got from Jack so it was probably very old.

The place is nice but set up for tourists. The village boys competing to cook for us. End up buying some fish and getting it cooked. Alan’s fish gutted and skinned in front of us by the fisherman using my machete.

Left at 08:00 and made for Sassandra to fill up. Had to change money at the bank which took an hour but at least they took travellers cheques. Headed North onto a dirt track road which wound over a couple of single carriage bridges. Quite scenic, after 15 km arrived at the tarmac and a police checkpoint. Got through quickly and took the road for Abidjan, with milestones counting down to Sassandra. Reckon they are building a new bridge.. Along the road came across a large black snake which got off the road and up the embankment. New road very good, some impressive cuttings and we make good time until about 100 km out when Mike’s throttle cable caused an hours delay. Continued through the rain and picked up the motorway on the outskirts of Abidjan giving us a quick hassle free (apart from one set of traffic lights) crossing of the city to arrive at the Copa Cabana campsite. Tod & co and The Girls have been through, The Girls leaving three days ago.

Another visa day. Up at 06:30 and leave about 07:30 to get to the Ghana embassy just after 08:00. Visa section didn’t open until 08:30 but at least we were first. Require the form in quadrature plus four photos, 6000CFA and will be ready 14:00 tomorrow. Could be worse. Go on to find a bank to change money and have lunch of pizza plus hamburger and fries - you can have too much local food. Then to the Post office to make a phone call home. 4 minutes at nearly 9000CFA but at least all is well at home and they know I’m OK. Abidjan has much more of a city feel than anywhere else we’ve been to since Rabat.

Spend the afternoon at the campsite and Paul goes out to buy some fried plantain. The proprieitress sees this and cooks some rissoles for us to show what food should be like. Excellent. Alan has drifted away for some cigarettes and misses most of the rissoles so inquiries if there’s a chance of food. She’s cooking for 4 other guests and says there may be some left over. About 09:30 , just after I’ve retired, she brings a huge plate of rice with vegetables cooked in ginger and white wine, omelette with fish. We’re stuffed, it’s excellent food and a gift. Cote d’Ivoire has so far excelled itself for friendliness.