Ghana

Settle up and leave the campsite at 10:00, only to realise later that we could have left one vehicle there as the road to Ghana runs past. Visit the British embassy and read the F.O. notes, nothing strongly advising against our proposed route.

Try for the visas at 12:00 but are told again 14:00 which is when we collect them. Also pick up a backpacker heading for Accra and give him a lift to the border for 1000CFA. Leave Abidjan just after 14:00 and have a fast run to Neo and the border. Vegetation changes slightly with sugar cane now in evidence. Clearing Cote d’Ivoire quite straightforward and are through at 17:20. Ghana is much more officious with Moroccan style procedures. Report to health, report to immigration, report to customs (pay 2500CFA tax) and after all that you get a stamped slip to get through the gate.

Takes until 18:30 with a slight pause at 18:00 for the flag lowering. Intend to stop for the night but nowhere suitable and the road is good so continue to Busua with the hitchhiker (+1000CFA). Arrive about 22:00 and settle down for a couple of beers.

Cote d’Ivoire certainly gets my vote for country of the year.

A lazy day preparing for the New Year. The Girls arrive mid-afternoon so we catch up with them, then Rob arrives about 17:00 to tell us that Simon is in hospital with malaria. But he brought my whisky. Drink beer slowly up to midnight then open the whisky and go down the beach to bring in ‘93 round a bonfire.

A lethargic day mainly spent reading the book Lanark.

Sleep interrupted by a couple of showers which force me to find shelter. Go into town about 10:00 to get breakfast of egg sandwich and coffee. Bread is very sweet. Finish reading Lanark, an interesting book but need to think about it. Make my way over to Dix Cove for a look. Quite dirty and everyone calling me Beuni, but worth a visit. Smells mostly of fish and is fairly typical village with the cove and a small whitewashed fort. Nothing unusual about it, all the normal stalls selling bits and pieces, sheep and hens wandering around.

As I expected was difficult to get away. Mike didn’t help by deciding lunch was a good idea, so eventually left at 14:30. Mike then didn’t bother to check the route and took the road for Tarkwa. When we passed a road sign that had two names on it but not Accra, I stopped and checked, then had to chase Mike, overtake him and send him back. The road was generally good but potholed in places. Ran along the coast for a while but otherwise very similar to other roads. Arrived in Accra at 19:00 and were caught by The Girls at a checkpoint and they then led the way to the campsite. Quite a difference to Busua, really busy and organised. Managed to borrow enough money from The Girls for me at least to have four beers and get drunk. I needed it.

Back on the visa trail. Get to the Nigerian embassy at 09:00 to be told they only issue to Ghana residents and to try Cotonou. The Kumuka truck are doing the same so it seems sensible. Go into town to change some money and check Poste Restante. The family have done me proud, four letters. Then on to the Togo embassy, collect tomorrow and the Benin to fill out the paperwork in preparation.

Spent the morning on chores, checking fluid levels and greasing the UJs. The exhaust has split from the rear box so will get that off and welded tomorrow.

In the afternoon ran into town to get our passports back from Togo and pass them on to Benin. Then into town. Al tried to get some money changed but without success as the banks were closed. I changed £ 50 at 800CDs/£ for travellers cheques. Got eight more passport photos as are needing so many visas and some have required four photos (Ghana). Also had a look round some of the shops and bought another day book and a couple of Mars bars.

The Girls have left because their visas will expire and it takes two weeks to get them extended. Their place has been taken with a North bound Guerba truck so the place is pretty busy.

Get the exhaust off then realise I have to mark it to get the correct angle for reassembly. Did so and took it down the road with a shock absorber of Robs. 3000cds for the two.

Had breakfast of pancakes with pineapple - excellent. Went back for the exhaust at midday but the power was off and he hadn’t been able to do anything. Wrote a couple of letters and postcards then took off the useless air horns and wired up the old horn. Found out that tomorrow is a public holiday so it will be a lost day.

The price of petrol has also gone up 60% overnight, don’t know about diesel.

Eventually got the exhaust back about 16:00, he had gas welded it as the lights were still off. The water was also off so no showers. Ate at one of the food stalls, egg rice and some salad for 360 CD. In the bar in the evening spoke with one of The Girls from the Kamuka truck who got Mike worried about tropical ulcers on his leg. He’ll get them looked at soon.

Was woken about 07:00 by the Guerba truck packing up. Got up later and started refitting the exhaust. It lines up fine which is a relief. Must get the extra support for the middle.

Had breakfast of beans and plantain at the ‘Mister Paul’ stall. Paul didn’t attend to the disappointment of Lovelance. The pro from the golf club turned up at 09:30 as promised but was 10:15 before we left. Course was about 5 km away. Rob, Simon, Al and Paul played, I walked the first seven holes but was getting too hot. The harmattan is blowing which is reducing the humidity.

Down to the welding shop for 08:30 where they replaced the spring bushes on the rear of the front springs. We could have done it ourselves but two hours of hard labour is best delegated. After my vehicle was done (and I got some welding done to the front jerry can holders) I set off for town. Fuel is now up to 392CD/l over 50% increase, but still cheaper than Cote d’Ivoire. In town I posted off a slide file to Kodak. Had to put it in a second envelope and get it inspected by customs then put it in a post box. I hope it gets through as it has the pictures of the desert stage.

Walked round town a bit and spent money. Got a beach mat and some chocolate and jam. Also bought a couple of figurines from a stall near the car for 3400CD. After that we met up with Adam (from Busua) and when we managed to collect everybody headed back to Coco for me to return with Mike to the clinic. He’s got a course of antibiotics to take.

The shop has decided it is better to get a new tank rather than repair the old one and the tank has been bought. A couple of fittings need to be changed and this will have to wait until tomorrow. Returned to the campsite.

Memory of Ghana is the religious and other names for shops and taxis. ‘Skin pain chop bar’, ‘Psalm 23 The Lord is my Shepherd electrical works’.

Towed Mike down to the shop for 08:30 and left them to get on with the work. Back to the campsite for a shower and breakfast then waited for Mike to return which he did at 11:30. Then got things arranged so he went to town to drop Adam off, fill up and get some money changed. Returned at 14:30 and we packed up and left. We could have avoided paying totally but I paid for 5 rather than 6 nights. Passed Lovelance’s stall on the way out and said goodbye to them all then back on the road. Fairly mundane scenery until the Volta where we passed Vume on the flood plain where they seem to specialise in clay pots. At the Volta itself we had a fairly lengthy police stop then over the bridge (50CD toll). Larger than the Niger at Bamako, it’s an impressive river. By 17:30 we were looking for a place to stop and pulled off at a gravel pit. Following a track we came to a collection of huts which turned out to be a honey farm. The resident was more than happy for us to stay and cooked us a meal of cassava and fish sauce and also provided some cane juice spirit