Kenya

Travelling man. On my own in the LR for the 1st time. Left Kampala and had breakfast at the Sunset Hotel in Jinja. Overlooking the source of the Nile. Pleasant spot. Carried on, on a good road through varied but dry scenery to Tororo, where the girl’s fan belt broke. Had a light lunch in town then to the border at Malaba. Very busy with trucks but we get through quite easily. No charges (!?). Enter Kenya without any shillings as the touts at the border won’t honour their quoted rates. First toll allows us through for free. See a small whirlwind early in the day and giraffe (outside any park) later. Arrive in Eldoret at about 18:00 and check the hotels - too expensive and they won’t change money. Head for the campsite recommended by Gavin in Kampala. Whow, what an amazing place - a bit like Shambles with Raj as host and excellent food. Gorge on chilli con carne and get very drunk on vodka and tonic.

A slow day. Go back to town after a good breakfast to change some money and let Hilary make a phone call. I change $ at Kenya bank getting quoted a rate of 60+ but after commission only get 58. Barclays seems much better giving 64. Seem to change at the wrong places. Change £ with Raj later getting 85 but Pat says Barclays was giving 93.. Phone call also turns out to be a major exercise which fails. The outgoing calls work fine.

Get some supplies from the supermarket - this town is full of shops, mostly hardware and motor supplies. Don’t find any sign of a market or fresh fruit and veg. Got shown round the factory at Ken Knit. Very busy with a lot of expensive machinery and lots of staff. Are spotted by The Boys while we wait for phone call, so tell them about the campsite. They decide to eat in town as they’ve found it so cheap. We give up on the call and head back picking up some fuel. The price is expected to go up soon but is not really cost effective for me to come back just to fill up. Personally have a quiet evening, but The Boys turn up and knock back a bottle of gin. They are still hyper with Simon as ringleader. Mike has managed to reverse into a drainage ditch which gives them a topic of conversation. Got some contacts from Raj for Mombasa and Arusha.

Try for an early start but Simon, the manager, doesn’t turn up till 07:15. to make up the bill (1000/- each) and then Kev spots a sheared bolt on the front flange on the girl’s. Get away just before 08:00 and try at Eldama Ravine to make Hilary’s phone call. No go. Get to Nakuru and succeed within 5 mins. Have breakfast and head on for Navasha. Register at the lodge 100/- for camping. Lazy afternoon but catch up on washing duty. Go to get changed and find a Geurba truck has parked 10m away (in > 10 acres of space) and the tents are practically on top of the LRs. Not impressed.

Have dinner at the lodge (315/-) for 5 courses and eat two desserts. Retire at about 22:30 but find Geurba in party mood (just in country?). One member of the party climbs a tree (30’) to cut off a dead branch. They finally desist at about 01:45.

First day in Nairobi. Leave the campsite making as much noise as possible to disturb Geurba. Straight into a steep climb which takes us on to the plateau and view over the rift valley. At one point you seem to be staring down into a volcano crater. Get to the Tea Zone about 10:00 to find The Boys have just arrived. We all head off to the Post Office by our own methods. Get a letter from Steve Collings, a parcel with two spare stove generators.

Take the rest of the day wandering around checking suppliers and prices. Have one film processed, comes out reasonably though it struggles with the range of light conditions. Manage to find my way back to the hotel after a couple of wrong turnings. Kev turns up with a friend who has flown out from London a couple of days before (found through Ma Roche’s noticeboard) and another couple of Kiwis. May be a possible passenger.

Go out for an Indian on the way to town. Very good food - usual amount of beer. Girls leave on their own about 5 mins before us - and get mugged. Fortunately they get a lift and are dropped to accompany us back. Hilary loses her watch, but no other real damage. They really put themselves at risk but Caroline in particular is very difficult to give (any) advise to.

Get into town fairly early. Try the motor factors first to see if any are interested in Kev’s clutch plate assembly. Get a couple of suppliers who will take a look. Then on to get what I need - rear main seal, spring bushes, bump stop and fan belts. Move on and deposit four films for processing. Stop at the Thorn Tree cafe for a cake then to the market. Don’t really have any money to spend. Nothing really good though quite respectable. Meet the girl’s looking for batiks - another cake then get out photos and check out a book shop. A bit disappointed with the Boots film photos. Greens are rather blue and range of colours is poor. OK for record photos I suppose but ...

Nuts and the other two Kiwis (Mark and Al) arrive for dinner at 19:00. They have done a deal with a Bukima truck for a 25 day trip and leave tomorrow. May see them on the beach. Drink slowly as stomach badly upset (food too rich) and go to bed about 22:00

Feeling better today. Have breakfast at about 09:00 with Kev then Hilary and John arrive. Chat for an hour or so. They are heading off for the Massai Mara and will return on Wed. I suspect I’ll still be here then and Kev still has a number of errands to run.

Take the day easily and finish of ‘Papillon’. Then tackle the fridge problem again. Decide to have a final check and see if it runs on main battery. It does! The only component that changed is a Scotch block connector which I discard. Take the opportunity to wire in a different switch so it is next to the driver’s seat. Seems to work

Another day of checking stuff out.

A day of chaos. The FOREX market has been suspended and no-one knows what rate to use; the official (45/- per $) or the tourist (66/- per $). Barclays end up using the tourist rate, all the others the official. But it is 15:00 before we get money changed. Also go up to Hurlingham to get an insurance quote from the AA. Good supermarket there. End up meeting two blokes from Pats truck plus two other Kiwis (with their own LR (Andy and Pete or Mike)) and have a number of beers (5) at the 680 upstairs bar.

Tidy up the things I was supposed to do yesterday. Buy three T shirts, get the circulation permit applied for, collect at 15:00 and then argue because it hasn’t been awarded free. Get it. Check out the bank rates - staying the same with Barclays.

Get another insurance quote for 3000/- for 3 months South. Go to Post Restante and collect a letter from Mum - written after I rang from Kampala. Lunch at the Thorn Tree then spill time at the British Council Library. Got back at about 16:00 intending to organise the LR to find Rob & Mary Lou have arrived. End up having a few beers then the idea is to go to the Carnivore - but they are fully booked so go for a Chinese instead. Take our own Vodka (in sachets) with us. Have a night cap at the 680. R & ML have really enjoyed the Rwenzori and sound as if they had a similar trip to us.

Up at 06:30 but nearly 08:00 before we leave for the airport. Am following Hilary, Caroline and John. The intent is to head for Mombassa after picking up Hilary’s friend Mike from the airport. The flight arrives tomorrow. Ends up that Caroline & I head for the beach. First I change 4270/- back into $ at the official rate of 45/- per $. Make $20 on this deal AND get hard currency. The markets are screwed at the moment.

Make good time to Mombassa having one Coke stop. Arrive about 16:00. On the way have some superb views of Kili appearing in the distance with a collar of snow. See four zebra just outside Tsavo park. The park itself is fairly bushy but some very nice rock formations. Scenery changes a lot from open savannah with thorn trees to close bush and baobab. Get to MBA at 16:00 and look for hotels with secure parking. Not personally taken with the town and vote to head for Tiwi. Have a beer first and arrive Tiwi at 18:30. It is crowded. A real overlanders convention. 3 of the Bukima truck are still there; Tod and co. (ex Rabat) are there; Pat’s Africa Explored truck rolls in, plus dozens of others.

The Indian ocean is very warm and inviting. This is the end of the overland trip as envisaged. Made it. I’d drive the LR into the ocean but there are too many witnesses....

Luckily the dive group are delayed and I catch up with them. Go out for the morning dive at 09:00 and head for a reef just outside the lagoon. Drop down a permanent line at about 15m. 10l (?) 200 bar, Mares BCD DV + octopus. Viz. not great at 5- 6 metres but plenty of fish life. Lion fish, moray, box fish, clown fish, shoal of sea bass. Good variety of corals and at least three different nudibranchs. Diving with Phil (divemaster) and two Dutch blokes who ended up sharing. Total of 55 mins.

Back to the beach for lunch and arrange to meet again at 15:00. Expected only to be me but end up with a full boat. Same dive site but water much clearer. Bit of a delay as people get organised and an O ring goes but eventually get the go ahead. Hit the bottom two minutes ahead of the rest and find a stone fish. Ends up that we find a lot during the dive. Variety of shoals of fish along the cliffs. Plenty of variety again. One of the divers nearly touches a stone fish Phil is pointing at. Find another moray. Although feel I am breathing easier still only make 50 mins.

Leave at 17:00 to head for Mombassa, book in to the New Palm Tree and meet the rest at the Castle Hotel. Go on for a very cheap but good thali then retire.

Sleepy start. Humidity, darkness of room or yesterday’s diving? Have breakfast then collect Rob’s mail from Post Restante. Have a look round the town and Fort Jesus before checking out and heading for Kilifi. Easy drive up the road. Lovely bridge over the creek. Find the campsite (still being built - want to be the manager?) and settle in. Order sandwiches for lunch and get them an hour later. I go in search of the divers Mike knew about. No one else knows them. Get a bit of a run around but interesting to get down to the creek. Get back to the campsite and as they have fresh fish decide to eat there. Takes an age again and we spend the time drinking gin. Retire about 23:00 and get all the gear but too windy for the net so sleep out until about 01:00 when the wind dies and a mossie appears. Rig net and sleep on.

Get up at 07:00. Miss breakfast as reckon it would take too long. Get under the car and check all main fluids. There are a lot of wet flanges about but no serious leaks as far as I can tell. Fit the new bump stop.

About 10:00 cruise along to the Kilifi Bay Hotel and spend the rest of the day there. Too late to go diving and are quoting 3000/- for a dive, 1000/- for snorkelling. I stay in the bar and write a letter home and catalogue the photos. Decide to eat at the hotel and have a five course meal for 550/- as much as I can eat and very good. Back to the campsite for the night.

Get back to the hotel for 08:00 to be sure of catching the divers. It was 10:00 before we leave and we’re the whole party. A 50 min dive to 23m and absolutely amazing. Drop into about 10m and swim to the drop off. And find a turtle resting on the bottom - I thought it was a coral head at first. Got within touching distance. The dive went on from there at high speed. Torn between looking at the reef or looking out into the blue. Lots of fish fry around and pelagic fish cruising outside. On the reef find a fine lion fish, two large 1m+ groupers, one with a large moray living upstairs. Also Napoleon wrasse, one stingray and the range of reef fish. Coral also seemed in good condition with plenty of variety.

Spend the rest of the day at the hotel, I read in the shade the rest sunbathe. Go into town to try and get some late afternoon photos of the creek but the clouds start to weaken the sun. Return to town for dinner at the local restaurant. Have a blow out. Guacamole, Roquefort steak, wine (Italian), chocolate ice cream, coffee and grappe. All for 8600/- (£8-60). Not cheap but good. After dinner conversation is concerned with how society will adapt since religion is dwindling in influence and belief.

Get up to catch the cool of the day and change the fuel filter. Have started thinking I’ll use the useless fuel tank as a battery box - but need to cut the top off.

John does a service on the white LR so offer some advice of what needs to be done. When complete head off for Mombassa, arrive early afternoon but I am knackered (didn’t sleep well due to some beetles, until rigged net) and take a nap for a couple of hours. Then head for the tourist shops in the old town. Don’t buy anything. In the evening, visit friends of John’s parents then go to a local restaurant/hotel (Fawlty Towers). Loose miserably in three games of table football.

Breakfast at 08:00 then to the market for Caroline and Hil to buy a wedding present. Still not impressed by the detail on the carvings. Some of the ebony and verdite are good but the quoted prices are about 10 times what I could afford. Can’t waste money yet. John spends the time working on the girl’s car (finds the yellow knob is off - car is in permanent 4WD - the yellow knob holds a spring which keeps the lever up, without it the lever drops and engages 4WD, 1000 miles on tarmac in 4WD can't be good.). Has some trouble setting the points and then it is still a bit rough. Find one HT lead is u/s and also fill up with premium. This solves the problem. Make off from Mombassa at 11:30 and have a stop at Voi and another later. Not as slow as I feared, the LR pulling up the hills well. Pass one road kill hyena but no other wildlife. Kilimanjaro is hidden in cloud. Are passed by a number of rally cars as we approach Nairobi, get to the Tea Zone at 20:00. See rain showers on the road but miss the worst of it.

Up at 07:00 to hand over my post to John, including two slide films. Hilary drops him at the airport then collects us from the Tea Zone and we go off to the Nairobi National Park. Not a lot of game about as is midday but see plenty of zebra, wildebeest and Thomson’s gazelle. Only one giraffe. Came back and had a late lunch at the Fig Tree. Couple of hours kip then out for dinner at the Trattoria. Some strange mixed groups of people - probably safari groups.

I head off to find the LR main dealer and price up replacing the rear main seal - 2200/- plus sundries, so provisionally arranged to get that done on the 14th. Also spotted a place for pressure cleaning the engine.

Met the rest at the Thorn Tree and head off on an abortive attempt to sort out insurance. Visit to the market then through the Heritage Cafe to the 680 hotel for a couple of beers. Head back to the Tea Zone and meet the rest - surprisingly quiet for Simon and Pat. Off to the Carnivore for Rob’s birthday celebration. Quite a heavy session in the Dawa (vodka cocktails) and loads of meat. Get back to the hotel at 01:00 to find Mike has the room key - but they do have a spare.

Fairly slow start as we find out what everybody else is doing. End up leaving as a group of six, Rob travelling with me. Head for Maro Maro to find out about climbing Mt. Kenya. Doesn’t look impressive from the road though top is in cloud. Have a beer at the lodge then find the guides office at 16:30. Hil decides against the climb as does Mike then Caroline ‘Would do it if I knew it wouldn’t rain’. So the three of us, Rob, Mary Lou and me, book the guide & porter and get some food (eggs, bread, potatoes etc.) from the market, just in time before it closes. Go back to the lodge and cook the potatoes and eggs then catch a view of the mountain as it clears at sunset. Eat at the lodge then sleep out in the campsite.

Up at 03:00 to leave at 03:35 after a quick breakfast. Glorious moonlight morning with the peaks perfectly clear. Slow steady climb mostly in the moonlight using torches in the shadow or after moonset. First 45 mins fairly easy then steep loose slope topping off on a boulder field. Flashing lights in the west (lightning?). Get to Austrian Hut at 05:30 and had a 10min break. Reasonably light by this stage as we climbed 200 m of summit cone. Beautiful colours in the east but climbing the East slope. Guide (Alfred) very unsure of snow and ice so ended up leaving him behind to arrive at the top about 06:20. Sunrise 06:24. Beautifully clear but being an isolated summit, not a lot to see. Spent 15 mins on top then back down to Teleki lodge for 08:00. An hour for breakfast then on down. Cloud came in about 10:00 again. Passed engine of crashed aircraft and a couple of groups heading up including a couple of army blokes.

Back at the LR by 12:15. Wouldn’t start. Flat battery before locate loose glow plug lead. Push start down the hill. Drop off guide and porter then head for Sambura to recharge battery. Not feeling too knackered. Fill up at Isiolo and arrive at the park about 16:45. See quite a lot, giraffe, zebra, oryx, duiker, elephant. Go to the lodge and get a message from Hil and co. They are staying there. Go to the bar for a beer 75/- but see a leopard taking bait across the river. Crocodiles are also fed so see four of them up on the bank. Have dinner there then head for the campsite. Get told off for driving in the park at night.

Wake up at 06:00 but no interest in getting up so doze on till 07:00 when a baboon runs into the tent. Get up and have breakfast and Guy and Celia pass by - don’t recognise them at first but arrange to meet later. R&ML get up and have breakfast but are raided by the baboons. Time to get the catapult out. Make for the lodge where C, H & Mike are enthusing about the lions they have seen. They are leaving today. Take the white one for a game drive and are reasonably successful seeing a lot of elephant watering in a very scenic part of the river. Also see a large and dark, dark brown bull giraffe. Return to the lodge and C, H and Mike set off. When the pop tops start to leave we follow them with Guy and Celia. Heavy downpour just as we leave. Follow one pop top but must be new arrivals as they stop to watch common birds and baboons. Give up and try on our own. Find out later no cats were spotted.

Return to the lodge in time for the leopard baiting but again no sign of a cat. So set off for the campsite at 18:45 (late again). Find the Germans in residence with a large fire blazing and cooking on gas.

Sit up talking to Guy and Celia - he can talk - until about 23:00. No sign of any baboons.

Up and packed at 06:15 for a 06:25 departure. Head for the lodge and ask if it’s OK to follow a pop top. It is but are advised just as well to cruise and home in on any congregation of pop tops. So head off for Archer’s gate and cruise for an hour then decide it’s time to go looking for the rest. On the way back Rob spots a hyena slinking into the bush - loose sight fairly quickly.

Make for higher ground to get a view but didn’t see much sign of grouping so head down and come across two pop tops who tell us there are lions with cubs just down the road. There are and we spend about 30 minutes with them, two lionesses, two cubs , a dead oryx and about 30 yds away, a youngish male. The cubs are gambolling through the grass and come right up to us. The others take interest but don’t move. As we get ready to leave the pop tops start to arrive and we leave a cluster of about eight

Get back to the lodge and have a light breakfast. Guy and Celia turn up not having seen the cats so we take them back. They haven’t moved far and we find them quite quickly. Leave G&C and make for the park exit. Don’t see anything of note on the way.

Got to Isiolo and have lunch in a cafe then drive on . LR is very sluggish up the hills out of Isiolo but by Meru seems OK. Stop to buy food and fuel then make on for Chigorio. Scenery is much better this side, but no view of Mt. Kenya. End up camping at the forest gate by the forestry offices.

A really good night’s sleep. No hurry to get away. Again some wonderful scenery but some very viscous speed bumps. Arrive back at the Tea Zone early afternoon and Rob and Mary Lou go off to town. Later go off to Hurlington to do some shopping. Lot of hassle from fruit sellers but get two punnets of strawberries for 30/-. Get back to the TZ. Mike and The Girls are going to the Norfolk for dinner. (Find Caroline and Hill having a G&T at the Norfolk in mid afternoon). Rob and I go off to Kamuka and meet Guy & Celia again. Rob is pissed off as his LR isn’t there and there is no message of what Simon is doing. Get back about 20:00 and is very busy, head for the Fig Tree for a couple of beers then on to the Norfolk for some G&Ts with the rest. Have some biltong being sold as a bar snack.

Good Friday. Mike is flying home so give him a slide film to take then wait for The Girls to get ready. Mike D turns up just as we are about to go. He is leaving his LR at the TZ (why I don’t know) and heading off to spend the w/e with his friend Hugo. I give him a lift and catch up with some of his plans. His sister is visiting in three weeks time so don’t know when he is ever going to be able to tackle the chassis. Get up to Nakuru and have a very late lunch after a failure at one of the rift valley viewpoints. Get into the park about 16:00 and drive slowly round the lake. Spot a couple of jackals and (of course) lots of flamingos. Also zebra, buffalo, eland and other antelope. Arrive at the campsite to find it is very busy so drive round to the other side of the stream. Have very nice Greek salad for dinner then play Yahtze by the fire.

A lazy start in the campsite. Start a letter to ESAC 514 until about 11:30 then set off to meet the safari rally. Drive round the other side of the lake and see some more of the wildlife and flamingos. Stop to let The Girls have a shower and a monkey gets in their LR - no problem.

Head out of Nakuru to Njoro then Elburgen. Lots of people by the roadside by this stage but not a lot of knowledge of what’s going on. Find the entrance to the forest and drive up the stage for a km or so. Stop and set up the chairs on the top. An hour or so later a helicopter goes over then almost immediately by Kankunnen. The four Toyotas go past reasonably quickly but there are some long gaps. The track is also well used by tractors, trucks, cows etc. Stay until all the locals have left then move a little into the forest to bush camp. Cars are still going past by 21:30

Even using the mileage from the speedo gives an mpg of 17.6 which isn’t too bad but the car is distinctly sluggish at altitude. Leave our campsite after a lie in (08:00 for me, 10:00 for the others) and head back to Nakuru following the stage route to Rongai. Very rough in places with some big holes. Fill up at Nakuru and head on for Navasha and Elsamere, Joy Adamson’s home. Arrive at 15:30 just in time for tea, scones and hot cross buns on the lawn (all for 100/-). Also watch a ~45 min video of her life and wander the house museum. Buy a print of some of her studies of fish for 500/-. Return to Fisherman’s camp for the night. Very busy.

The campsite is a bit noisy and the flies a pest so move on to Safariland lodge again. The Girls hope to go horse riding but it is only round the lodge grounds so retire to the pool and sink a few beers. Write an eight page letter to ESAC which should keep them going for a while. Leave for Nairobi at 16:00 and arrive the Kumuka camp about 18:00. Campsite very busy.

Start of preparations to leave. Take the vehicle down the road to get an engine wash. 250/- for a steam clean and valet. Looks good. Then as was about 13:00 went out to Ma Roches and left a note on the board looking for passengers. Back to the Tea Zone where meet Hil (she is going home in three weeks now, no great surprise). Into town to get a sump gasket and other bits and pieces then back to the Tea Zone and back to Kamuka. Ate out at the Trattoria.

Say 4000 km to Harare at 15l per 100km, need 40*15 = 600l to Harare. Can carry 68+45+40+80+50 = 283.

One month since Sheraton breakfast. Am approx. $500 down which is suprisingly OK (Also £100 out of Access but £450 for a month of high living is not bad). Remaining $1900 TCs, $200 cash, £30 TCs, ~ £500 cash (£2000 total or 4 months at current expenditure takes me to mid-August)

Day spent getting the rear main seal replaced and for an extra 260/- the brakes adjusted and bled. Confusion because my block is five main bearing and I had the kit for three main bearing (I didn’t know the difference) so cost a bit more, just short of 4000/- all in (£40). Looked like I wouldn’t get it back for a while but they managed to finish by 17:30. Just see whether it lasts now.

Cooked for myself in the evening then Mike and The Girls turned up so ended going out to Karen and having a beer while they ate. Rob unwell due to a bad samossa.

Up at 07:00 for a pee. Take the morning easy and clean out the food boxes. Have a shower and phone up the Americans. No good. Forge the cholera certificate then as it starts to rain head for town. Park at the Tea Zone then walk in. Change $100, arrange insurance (3rd party) for the next three months (1750/-). Pick up the duplicate photos from Rob’s Mt. Kenya and Sambura. Buy some more malaria prophelatics and a book on Scottish history then back to the Tea Zone. Decide to have a quick beer and have another two bought by a local Asian businessman. Head back for Kamuku and get some petrol on the way. When get back there is evidence of a slight oil leak from the bell housing.... We shall see.

The Danish couple turn up with their Series II hard top converted to a soft top. Looks good. But security? Mary Lou returns after taking the other two back to the TZ. As no sign of Rob we go next door for a pizza. Rob turns up shortly thereafter having just fallen in the ditch - thigh is badly scraped. Has had a busy afternoon at Africa Expeditions (?) and the UN. Jobs sound hopeful. Gets me interested but when Mike returns later he is very possessive so I’ll get on with my own plans.

Mike has arranged a breakfast meeting with Rob. As they’re going into town and on from there it seems a waste of time to take three vehicles just for breakfast so I stay at Kamuka to get on with the work.

The air filter is filthy - it should have been done before. Also tackle the glow plugs and clean all the connections but not convinced they are working properly. Battery is almost flat when I try to start. End up using the spare battery and decide it is time to use it as the main so swap over. Start to do an inventory of the spares but there are so many seals etc. which are unidentifiable. Use hammer and cold chisel to take the top off the passenger seat tank (leaking and so u/s). with the intent of storing the spare battery and fluids there. Take the vehicle for a run to ensure the batteries are topped up. Go out to Karen - a tiny collection of shops next to a round about, then out to Ma Roche’s. Have a quick chat with Jerome then check for messages. Two responses but one is broke ( she is in a hurry to get to Jo’burg so is not suitable) the other won’t be able to leave till May 18th. Left a response for her? Kimberley? as I’d rather not wait but a passenger is a passenger.

Got back to Kumuka at about 17:00 - no sign of Rob. Another Acacia truck has turned up so is getting very busy. No sign of oil from the drain after today’s 50km run.

Go round to Mike’s (Helen’s) for a light breakfast. Spend some time chatting to Phil and reading magazines then decide to visit the Ngong Hills. Drive over there and get to the top but are in the clouds. The track also gets very rough so decide to turn back. Have lunch at Karen in the salad bar then go to the Karen Blixen museum. The others don’t have their employment cards so don’t bother. The ostrich park looks like a home counties tourist trap so skip that as well. Go back to Mike’s (Helen’s) feeling pretty tired and rough (the salad?). End up crashing out at the campsite about 21:00. Feeling cold and run down. Wake just after midnight as too hot but then sleep until 08:00

Ugh. Not feeling too well. Not really ill but ...Mike turns up about 11:00 and we go down to the Nairobi Sailing and Sub Aqua Club. The SAC are starting a novice course but not a lot else happening. The sailing branch seems totally dormant. Wednesday night seems to be club night so may return.. Went to the Simba (saloon?), part of the Carnivore, for lunch. Probably shouldn’t have eaten but was tempted by a taco. Returned to the campsite and rested. Rob & Mike went, removed Mike’s roofrack, and returned. I still wasn’t well enough to, socialise.

Simon and co. have still not returned so future plans are still a little confused. Am inclined to get to the Mara and possibly Ngorongoro then meet The Girls at Dar.

Still not 100%. Take things slowly and move the spare battery to its new home under the passenger seat. For the moment all engine oils etc. are out of the passenger area. Tackled the dog guard and moved it back a little so a bit better for the back seats. Over to Mike’s for the evening where Phil was getting very drunk and regaling us with stories of his life.

Slowly knocking off the jobs to be done. Replaced the oil filter, changed one headlight as a test (not really any better) and greased the UJs. Went out to Rifiki’s in the afternoon but was still closed then on to Ma Roches. Spoke to Timothy for an hour or so but he is committed to going to Uganda tonight as wants to see the gorilla. Will be away for at least 14 days. Agreed that if I don’t go soon will wait till 18 May - then may have two passengers. Returned to Kumuka then went next door for a burger (appetite returning) and out to Mike to catch up. The UN has been in touch and there seems to be a job or two on offer. Mike’s LR is also slowly continuing its decline - a rear wheel bearing is very loose.

Leave about 22:00 and return to find The Boys have arrived so have a beer next door with them.

Into town and visited the museum. The sea life exhibit was interesting if a bit dated as was the geology display. Joy Adamson’s portraits of the tribes were good. Got back to the TZ and found a note from Rob. Had lunch with Rob and Pat there, then into town to get the bits and pieces. At 17:00 went out to Ma Roche’s to meet Mark and Rachel, an Australian couple, seem interested in joining us so arranged to meet again tomorrow night.

A day spent pottering, solving the little problems that have been there since the UK. Cold start light works, clock light works, and moved the cassette player to a better auxiliary switch. Went into town to collect Mark and Rachel then out to Karen for a meal. Picked up Pat’s gear on the way as he is off with the UN tomorrow. Simon and Elaine provide the cabaret, being a bit stoned.

A nothing day. Simon & Elaine were going to town so got them to do my limited shopping. Tidied the van a bit more, then got slowly drunk watching Rob dismantle his rear brakes. The Kamuka campsite is getting empty, The Danes left this morning, the big French Renault yesterday and Bukima are off tomorrow. Eat next door and retire, the rest head off for the Carnivore disco. Kev not returning until tomorrow morning....

Pat left this morning for his UN visit, Mike returned and was told a few tractor details by Rob & Kev.

Kev turns up at 09:00 to receive some concerned remarks about his overnight stay, at a petrol station.

Later go to Ma Roche’s to collect Mark & Rachel. Slow day, again sort most of the gear out and collect stuff from Mike. Retire to the bar then next door for a meal. Anne has arrived to visit Mike and they turn up later. I collect Mike’s Black Label from his car when I leave to listen to the sports news. Mike is confused when he can’t find it to share with us later. Too late.

A better day. Set off from Narok at about 08:00. The road is OK to the junction 15 kms on, then bad dirt for the rest of the way. As we get nearer the park the road becomes very indistinct and ask some massai the way. Pass a lot of game outside the park, wildebeest, zebra, gazelles etc. Eventually at about 13:00 enter the park itself and drive to the Serena lodge campsite. The lodge itself is on an outcrop overlooking the river, lovely setting. Go for a drive at about 16:00 as the rain clouds gather. Find a small herd of elephant fairly quickly and spend a few minutes with them. A couple of pop-tops are stopped about half a mile away, so drive over to find a pride of lions. Better looking, better fed than the Samburu lions. Starts to rain as we get to them, so not too good for photos. Wait for the rain to stop and go a bit further, but the road is very slippy, giving me a few moments. Allow Kev to drive back, I feel happier with him driving. End up pulling one of the pop-tops out of the ditch (he didn’t even start his engine to help).

Retire early as was feeling off all day with slight stomach cramps.

Back on form and an excellent day for viewing game. Cruised towards Keekorock from a 06:30 departure taking detours as they were presented. Started off with zebra and Thomson’s gazelles and worked on up. Saw a large pack of hyena (started off saw hyena following a jackal) in its den. Moved on to some giraffe with a couple of young and a solitary elephant. Close to the lodge caught up with the pop-tops which were around three lionesses and further off a cheetah.

Stopped for lunch at the canteen, not the lodge, cokes 20/- each. Set up on what we were told was the locals slaughter slab and had lunch. Set off again at 15:30 and went back to the lions, better view this time. The cheetah had left but three elephants were in its place.. Moved on heading for Telek and on one detour were attracted by one pop-top flashing its lights. Through binoculars could see a cat and driving down found a cheetah (may have been the morning’s) though at first we thought it was a leopard because it used a convenient tree as a viewing platform. It cruised on passing close to the car and Mark got out to follow it.... From there we found another hyena which looked as though it may be part of a hunt. Waited 20 mins but nothing happened so drove on to find hordes of hyenas, one of which had a pair of antlers to eat.

As was getting late set off for the gate. Driving along noticed a cat shaped piece of dead wood and was just about to comment about how often I’d been fooled, when it moved. Stopped and realised we had two cheetahs in view, one silhouetted against a darkening sky. As we waited they trotted past us down the track (bellies full from a recent feast). Superb views.

Went to Talek where we had lengthy discussions about the campsite cost but ended up paying the 150/- ppn that was demanded. Opened (Mike’s) the Black Label to commemorate the day.

A beautiful starlit night. Arose at 06:10 for 06:30 departure. Rachel and Mark hidden in the blue to avoid non-resident rates, but the gate was unmanned. Following Rob headed North and suspect we left the park proper, but in the process spotted a pack of foxes (bat eared) and also a number of mongoose. Headed South passing the occasional hyena till we spotted a congregation of pop-tops. Heading up to meet them we saw that they were watching a male lion out in the open. We stopped to watch and he came straight at us, brushing past the back of the Land Rover. Against my ideals followed him into the bush to find him at rest with his four lionesses. As we watched the females left in pairs (females always go in twos) and we turned round to leave him in peace.

Drove on and stopped in some open ground for a quick breakfast which was threatened by a large herd of buffalo. Headed on not really knowing where we were to find ourselves on the road at Keekorok. Again there was a cluster of pop-tops, this time watching a solitary lioness in the open. We stopped for a coke at the canteen then went to the lodge for the blue to get some fuel. Impressive, although the permanent tents were being replaced by bungalows.

Set of for the park gate and on one diversion spotted a short legged elephant (i.e. a rhino). Followed it until it was on the edge of the bush, impressive horned animal when caught in profile. This time Mark ran out into the open to get his photo, spoilt my shot and the rhino left fairly quickly thereafter into dense bush. Drove on but as the day got hotter the game disappeared, so hiding Mark and Rachel again headed for the gate, paid and left.

Nearly lost the alarm from the back window and took a few passing shots of Massai to arrive in Narok at about 15:00 for cold beers and carry out sausage and chips.

A bad start to the day when had to pay for the campsite and the vehicle stuck in 3rd gear. Drove for about 10ml before it freed up but was OK for the rest of the way. Headed for Ma Roche’s when got to Nairobi and arrived at about 10:30. Pat was there, he’s got a job. Headed off into town to spend my Kenyan shillings, getting a couple of photo albums, two new novels, a set of wildlife prints (675/-) and some film. Had lunch at the Trattoria then back to Ma Roche’s.

Rob & Simon had turned up by then so despatched them to town for Simon to get his money - tomorrow is May day holiday and after that a strike has been called for Monday and Tuesday, so needed to get sorted today. We did a shop getting a selection of pasta and tinned stuff then went for a couple of beers to the Everest Hotel.

Back at the campsite Rob and Simon were struggling with their oil pump. Kev and Simon started making noises about a later departure, myself and Rob would prefer to go as planned.

As town was reputed to be very busy (pay day) we went up the road for an Indian meal, again (c.f. 1st meal in Nairobi) mine was very slow. The local Indian band set up to entertain us, which in our drunken state was not good. Rob did an impression of a snake with bottle tops and tooth picks and napkins got thrown about until we were told that upstairs was a better place for us. Not sure that they agreed upstairs as we balanced bottles and glasses on the table. Eventually left at about 01:00 to find it pissing down, the road and campsite awash. Followed Pat’s advice and crashed out in one of the dorms to listen to the rain all night.

Rob & Simon finish off their oil pump overhaul and oil change to find a hydraulic tappet is causing problems. Decide it is best to repair it here so strip the engine down. Repair is not successful so will not leave until tomorrow at the earliest.

Go into town in the evening for a Chinese meal and then on to the Zanze Bar where we stay until about 02:30 before getting a taxi back. Then spend another hour on the veranda at Ma Roche’s quaffing whisky. I should have known better.

Ugh. Rough, rough, rough. Spend most of my day in my tent. Start to recover by evening time and manage some soup. Should be OK tomorrow.

Rob & Simon try again on the tappets but have another failure. Departure is delayed again. Depends what effect tomorrow’s threatened strike has, when we will actually get manage to get away. Campsite quite busy with overlanders at the moment.

Another day waiting but at least I’m feeling better. Take Simon to the Range Rover specialist for advice. Probably vaseline, used to prime the pump, in the pressure gauge and the tappets could take 10 mins to bleed in. Return and have success. Rest of day spent tidying up.

At last we’re away. Kev and Simon decide, on the toss of a coin, that t’would be better to take the dowh from Mombassa and meet at Dar. So we pack up and say our good byes. Stop in town to get new fuel gauge for Rob, but not in stock at either Impala or CMC, which left Rob with a sh*tload of shillings. Filled up front, top jerries and both tanks. Headed out of Nairobi at 11:00 and made good time despite a couple of detours arriving at Namanga at about 14:00. Had lunch then went to fill up again to use Rob’s shillings - no petrol. So filled a 50l plastic + the rear tank plus 2 * 25l cans of Robs. Rob then bought various artefacts to use up the last of the money. Good selection of goods in the border shop. Went on to the border and were through in 45 mins. Kenya officials disappointed/surprised that we had a valid circulation permit. $60 to Tanzanian officials for road tax and on we went at 15:45. Road still in good condition but Kili and Meru shrouded in mist. Arrive in Arusha at about 17:30 but the first place we tried had no room, so went to the massai campsite (run by a Scot) where we find The Girls’ Land Rover parked up, but no girls. Have a beer and meal and relax.