Mali

Journal Entries Remarks

Day 59 Saturday 12th December 1992 294 Km

Made Kobenni quite quickly in the morning and after having located the customs we were quickly processed and on our way with carnet stamped and no questions on the currency declaration. Took a rather circuitous route to Nioro. Ended up on the short route which should have been 75 km but we took 98 km, longer than the long route.

Nioro was a pain. The police demanded a total of 500FF for insurance and overtime. We paid. Also didn’t clear customs as they said we should do so in Bamako. Could be interesting. Also had problems in getting fuel as the filling station was not interested. Got two jerry cans from a shop but was expensive.

Still we are in Mali. Made good speed to Diema on an improved dirt road. Got water there to the amusement of the locals, as I couldn’t fill the bucket very well. Road then degraded back to dirt track. Made another 34 before stopping for the night. Scenery is much more Savannah with more grass and larger trees. Also more bird life including a lovely blue jay like bird. Termite mounds. Local people very happy, friendly and colourful

Day 60 Sunday 13th December 1992 353 Km

Shit, what a day. We missed the turn on the road and happily followed a good track East. I started to get concerned when there was no South in it and after 48 km stopped and checked in a village. Sure enough we were at Dioumara, a good 30 km from the main track. Worse Mike was still heading East although we could get to Bamako by heading South.
So I gave chase.
And rolled the truck.
And got my arm trapped.

Came out of it extremely well. A scraped and bruised arm which if it doesn’t get infected will be fine in a week. A badly smashed front wing which should be able to beat back into some semblance of order. Very little fluids lost although the spare battery lost acid. All lights still OK. It could have been an awful lot worse.

It took us 30 mins or so to right the car and then a long time driving through very little used tracks from village to village until we eventually got out in the main road after 148 km. Villagers very friendly running to give directions or walking with us. Scenery boring but some huge trees with fruits hanging on threads.

Bit of hassle on the main road because of lack of insurance but got through. Arrived Bamako about 18:00 and found the empty campsite. Mike is desperate to find The Girls (or just Mary Lou) and was disappointed, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were behind us. Will check in town tomorrow.

Day 61 Monday 14th December 1992 0 Km

Day spent at the campsite repairing the front wing. It’s not the best example of the panel beater’s art but it will do. It was extremely exhausting doing the work though as the vehicle was in full sun. Inside it got to 54°C and outside it was in the high 30°s.

The rest went into town for a list of things and as usual did hardly any. Did get money changed and applied for AC’s Cote d’Ivoire visa. Did not get to the gendarmerie, Customs, Post Restante or apply for visas for Mike or myself. Did meet up with the Bukima truck and Rob & Simon who had a few tales to tell, having had the truck robbed, 6 people mugged and Rob with his tent slashed with a sword and a demand for money. R&S continue to have problems with their 110 and Mike towed them out to our campsite as they only had one gear.

Day 62 Tuesday 15th December 1992 62 Km

Slept very badly due to, generator running till 01:00, dogs, cocks crowing, mossies buzzing. Also stomach is upset probably due to the heat. Went to town and in short order managed to get visas applied for (collect at 12:00, cost 10,000 CFA!) and the carnets stamped. Rest of day very productive , mainly due to Paul. I spent a lot of time on guard, with the muggings I cannot relax. Got most things done although food supply is poor. Got 20 kg of rice.

Collapsed (metaphorically) from exhaustion both mental & physical at about 19:00 and retired for an extended rest. Also during the day took Mike’s main tank off to get it welded up. Cost 10,000 CFA and didn’t seal.

Day 63 Wednesday 16th December 1992 0 Km

A day spent on and under the car. Changed fuel filter.

Checked all fluids. All OK except engine oil, main gearbox and one swivel (water contaminated). Am a little concerned by the amount of fluid leaks. Simon & Rob left to head for Bukima Faso and Christmas with Bukima. Hope to meet up for Hogmany. Mike is slowly getting his car back together but left it too late for the tank to be repaired today, come back tomorrow. This will delay our departure (yet again). Has been persuaded that the chassis repairs would be better done in Ghana.

Repacked the car putting 4 water jerry cans on the roof. Suspect my days of sleeping on the roof are over.

Day 64 Thursday 17th December 1992 40 Km

And so we wait. Mike and Alan have gone to get the fuel tank repaired, Paul to town. AC & I are on guard as all Mike’s gear is here in a heap.

Paul and Alan eventually return at 14:00, the tank is still leaking and Mike is in town trying to get a replacement. Pack up and leave in a vain hope. Get to town and park. I buy a pair of strides for 2150 CFAs from a passing hawker, the rest go to the market to have some made. Mike turns up with two cohorts. They have a petrol tank which could be adapted.

Decide to skip the option and Mike goes to get Cote d’Ivoire added to the insurance and check Post Restante. Eventually everybody returns at 18:00, too late to leave so we fuel up and return to the campsite. I’m wrecked again. No food all day, sugar deficient. A coke helped then some rice and chicken. Have also pulled a muscle in my right buttock which got worse all day.

Day 65 Friday 18th December 1992 312 Km

A most disturbed night due to the pulled muscle. Flat on my back is best but still an aching pain. Couldn’t drive as the position was agony - sharp pains - so Ann Claude took the wheel for the first stretch which was good tarmac all the way to Bougouni. A police checkpoint there where they questioned the authenticity of our insurance. Sure a photocopy could be a forgery. It is. He made his point, we got away with it. Then on to a dirt track where AC was very timid and gentle with the car, but also very slow. After an hour I took over as in the warmer conditions my leg was feeling better.

Drove all the way to the border at Manakoro. Scenery very dry though grass is a lot higher and more trees. A lot of burning in progress which makes it even more unattractive. Police and Customs at Morokoro very friendly. Almost makes up for Nioro. Shame couldn’t spend longer in Mali; but so poor.

Cote d’Ivoire customs very quick, both in location and processing. Had intended to camp before but were on them before we realised. The boss was training up a junior, but no hassle. Camped shortly after and I immediately got flat to kill the pain. Did what chores I could in short breaks.

First night under the mossie net.

	Journal Entries	Remarks
	Day 59 Saturday 12th December 1992 294 Km Made Kobenni quite quickly in the morning and after having located the customs we were quickly processed and on our way with carnet stamped and no questions on the currency declaration. Took a rather circuitous route to Nioro. Ended up on the short route which should have been 75 km but we took 98 km, longer than the long route. Nioro was a pain. The police demanded a total of 500FF for insurance and overtime. We paid. Also didn’t clear customs as they said we should do so in Bamako. Could be interesting. Also had problems in getting fuel as the filling station was not interested. Got two jerry cans from a shop but was expensive. Still we are in Mali. Made good speed to Diema on an improved dirt road. Got water there to the amusement of the locals, as I couldn’t fill the bucket very well. Road then degraded back to dirt track. Made another 34 before stopping for the night. Scenery is much more Savannah with more grass and larger trees. Also more bird life including a lovely blue jay like bird. Termite mounds. Local people very happy, friendly and colourful
	Day 60 Sunday 13th December 1992 353 Km Shit, what a day. We missed the turn on the road and happily followed a good track East. I started to get concerned when there was no South in it and after 48 km stopped and checked in a village. Sure enough we were at Dioumara, a good 30 km from the main track. Worse Mike was still heading East although we could get to Bamako by heading South. So I gave chase. And rolled the truck. And got my arm trapped. Came out of it extremely well. A scraped and bruised arm which if it doesn’t get infected will be fine in a week. A badly smashed front wing which should be able to beat back into some semblance of order. Very little fluids lost although the spare battery lost acid. All lights still OK. It could have been an awful lot worse. It took us 30 mins or so to right the car and then a long time driving through very little used tracks from village to village until we eventually got out in the main road after 148 km. Villagers very friendly running to give directions or walking with us. Scenery boring but some huge trees with fruits hanging on threads. Bit of hassle on the main road because of lack of insurance but got through. Arrived Bamako about 18:00 and found the empty campsite. Mike is desperate to find The Girls (or just Mary Lou) and was disappointed, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were behind us. Will check in town tomorrow.
	Day 61 Monday 14th December 1992 0 Km Day spent at the campsite repairing the front wing. It’s not the best example of the panel beater’s art but it will do. It was extremely exhausting doing the work though as the vehicle was in full sun. Inside it got to 54°C and outside it was in the high 30°s. The rest went into town for a list of things and as usual did hardly any. Did get money changed and applied for AC’s Cote d’Ivoire visa. Did not get to the gendarmerie, Customs, Post Restante or apply for visas for Mike or myself. Did meet up with the Bukima truck and Rob & Simon who had a few tales to tell, having had the truck robbed, 6 people mugged and Rob with his tent slashed with a sword and a demand for money. R&S continue to have problems with their 110 and Mike towed them out to our campsite as they only had one gear.
	Day 62 Tuesday 15th December 1992 62 Km Slept very badly due to, generator running till 01:00, dogs, cocks crowing, mossies buzzing. Also stomach is upset probably due to the heat. Went to town and in short order managed to get visas applied for (collect at 12:00, cost 10,000 CFA!) and the carnets stamped. Rest of day very productive , mainly due to Paul. I spent a lot of time on guard, with the muggings I cannot relax. Got most things done although food supply is poor. Got 20 kg of rice. Collapsed (metaphorically) from exhaustion both mental & physical at about 19:00 and retired for an extended rest. Also during the day took Mike’s main tank off to get it welded up. Cost 10,000 CFA and didn’t seal.
	Day 63 Wednesday 16th December 1992 0 Km A day spent on and under the car. Changed fuel filter. Checked all fluids. All OK except engine oil, main gearbox and one swivel (water contaminated). Am a little concerned by the amount of fluid leaks. Simon & Rob left to head for Bukima Faso and Christmas with Bukima. Hope to meet up for Hogmany. Mike is slowly getting his car back together but left it too late for the tank to be repaired today, come back tomorrow. This will delay our departure (yet again). Has been persuaded that the chassis repairs would be better done in Ghana. Repacked the car putting 4 water jerry cans on the roof. Suspect my days of sleeping on the roof are over.
	Day 64 Thursday 17th December 1992 40 Km And so we wait. Mike and Alan have gone to get the fuel tank repaired, Paul to town. AC & I are on guard as all Mike’s gear is here in a heap. Paul and Alan eventually return at 14:00, the tank is still leaking and Mike is in town trying to get a replacement. Pack up and leave in a vain hope. Get to town and park. I buy a pair of strides for 2150 CFAs from a passing hawker, the rest go to the market to have some made. Mike turns up with two cohorts. They have a petrol tank which could be adapted. Decide to skip the option and Mike goes to get Cote d’Ivoire added to the insurance and check Post Restante. Eventually everybody returns at 18:00, too late to leave so we fuel up and return to the campsite. I’m wrecked again. No food all day, sugar deficient. A coke helped then some rice and chicken. Have also pulled a muscle in my right buttock which got worse all day.
	Day 65 Friday 18th December 1992 312 Km A most disturbed night due to the pulled muscle. Flat on my back is best but still an aching pain. Couldn’t drive as the position was agony - sharp pains - so Ann Claude took the wheel for the first stretch which was good tarmac all the way to Bougouni. A police checkpoint there where they questioned the authenticity of our insurance. Sure a photocopy could be a forgery. It is. He made his point, we got away with it. Then on to a dirt track where AC was very timid and gentle with the car, but also very slow. After an hour I took over as in the warmer conditions my leg was feeling better. Drove all the way to the border at Manakoro. Scenery very dry though grass is a lot higher and more trees. A lot of burning in progress which makes it even more unattractive. Police and Customs at Morokoro very friendly. Almost makes up for Nioro. Shame couldn’t spend longer in Mali; but so poor. Cote d’Ivoire customs very quick, both in location and processing. Had intended to camp before but were on them before we realised. The boss was training up a junior, but no hassle. Camped shortly after and I immediately got flat to kill the pain. Did what chores I could in short breaks. First night under the mossie net.

Last Changed 22th November 1999 (New background, full resolution picture links); 22nd Sept 2009 (ported and restructured)