Mauritania

Alan drops a jerry can on the (my) table and manages to crack the top. Should be able to repair it with fibreglass.

The escort left at 08:00 and there was a mad scramble to follow it. They went about 1 km then handed over the passports at the end of the road. They just handed them out, so there was a bit of a scramble to get the correct passport. I naively followed the 504s into the sand and promptly stopped. Simon ran up to the window and shouted '1^st low range and keep the revs up', so I did and crawled off into the desert. There followed a 10 km stretch of unmade road. Once we got past the 504s and got things together (all 29 of us) we got through quite quickly, but we had the full works of sand ladders, shovels and brute force. Don't know how the others will get on (Don't care either). At the end of the sand stretch got back onto a tarmac road and had a photo session of the group and the sign pointing back to Morocco - we had eventually left it behind. Got to the border just after 10:00 and spent 2.5 hours getting details copied across for the local official dressed in a smart red track suit. But at least the locals are black.

'3.5 km along the road then left and head for the railway.' The guy kept repeating it to make sure we understood and Ann Claude also checked. We missed the turn somewhere and ended back on the road (mined). Followed tracks for a total of 25 kms through soft sand till arrived at the railway. Followed that in until we arrived at a customs post (hut) at about 16:00. Vehicle was checked twice, once by the militia and once by civilian but no hassle. Spent night at the post and are to be accompanied into town tomorrow.

Up early and away at 08:00 (again). 13 km of rough road took us into town and a prolonged wait in a small smelly courtyard as all 29 passports are processed. Eventually got away at 15:00 only to be turned back at the checkpoint because we did not have a laisser paper. We could have bought our way out but decided to return. Ended up camping with Bukima again on the beach. Greg doesn't fancy taking the truck down the coast piste as he has no idea of the conditions, so they are taking the truck on the train to Choum. He also doesn't want to open up the cache of alcohol in Mauritania, so my whicky travels with them for now. Noadibou is quite a change from Maroc with quite a lot of modern (ish) shops and offices and a very nice Salon de The. But prices are expensive. Were talking with a 'local' for a couple of hours in the evening. Conversation being in French I followed a fair amount I think. Some of it quite lewd.

Turned up at the Surete at 08:00 but the chef did not turn up until 10:00, in the meantime went to customs and got a currency declaration form and the carnet stamped. Quite a lot of missing paperwork. Left town at 12:00 and cleared the checkpoint easily. Then had 50 difficult kilometres. Soft sand and frequent bogging. Used all the gear at various times, ladders, shovels and the KERR. A few moments of mechanical concern once when I left the handbrake on , the other when a shovel knocked it out of low ratio and I had no gears.

Road got about 1 km from railway before turning back; enough to question whether we were right.

Cleared 2nd checkpoint on the railway crossing at 16:00 and then had 20 km of fast hard sand - marvellous cruising at 60 km through sand dunes. Stopped for the night in the shelter of a dune and played dune leaping games.

Set off early to make the best of the cool of the day. Following tracks of other vehicles and occasional tyre markers but piste very wide in places hence tracks old and faint. Occasional boggings mainly due to being in too high a gear when suddenly it goes soft. Weird scenery in places with trees almost in the middle of sand dunes.. Surprised to see people on two occasions, also a hare when we stopped and collected some wood. Quite happy to leave the route finding to Rob & Simon as they are getting it right when I'm starting to worry. I'm comforted by knowing that the sea is on our right, so keep the sun generally in front of us and we can't go too far wrong. Keep coming back across distinct tracks. Stopped for lunch at 14:15 with 168 kms done. First 4 hours averaged 20 kph so have done better the last couple of hours.

Some fast travelling interrupted by areas of soft sand or sudden bumps. Curry powder exploded in the back of Simon & Rob's and Mike found a few items in need of attention. So far all seems OK with me except transfer pump needed attention before could pump across. Now have 2 jerries + B tank. Got knife back from A tank that had been hidden for the border check. Collected wood on the way so cooked over a fire in the evening using a sand plank as grate. Met the Mussolini's (Adrian and Steve change sides a lot) in the ambulance late in the day together with the Dutch blokes. Didn't hang around as were on a salt pan. The sea is visible but tracks very temporary. Don't expect ours will last till morning.

Set off at 08:00 and fairly quickly broke through the sand wall. Although Mike got bogged after 5 yards. Were then onto a hard solid track almost like tarmac in places. Passed one abandoned truck then arrived at a small village where the track hit the beach. Did 90 or so kms along there passing one wrecked trawler (no brass) until we reckoned the tide was getting too high. Parked up for lunch which becomes an overnight stop. The tidal range seems quite small and it looks as though we stopped fairly soon after low water.

Travelling down the beach we started to see some wildlife. Pelicans & flamingos in the water edges then dolphins and sharks. Lots of fish and birds around as well. Turtles and wild dogs were spotted by Rob but didn't see them myself. Rob & Paul went for a run in the V8 to get some fish. Took a long time. Reckon we have parted ways with Steve and Adrian now though we did see them today.

Off at 08:00 and Mike immediately got stuck again. Many fish remains on the beach including one large puffer. Got onto the track and made good speed although the corrugations were bad in places. After 60 km came to a checkpoint. The officials were a bit confused to see us but unfortunately came across the money in Mike's car and wanted to check against the currency form. Took 30 mins to get through then another 30 km took us into Nouakchott by 11:00.

Had 1/2 tank + front two jerries + B tank on leaving Nouakchott. Transfer pump proving to be useless. Keeps getting stuck. Will probably end up siphoning. Headed up road to Attar. Good tarmac to begin with but deteriorated quickly till took to the dirt again. Hit a couple of bad bumps. Afraid maybe too hard. Inspection in the evening showed a fluid leak either from the front flange or shocker. The car is now smothered in dust.

Seem to average about 18ml/gallon since Dakhla.

Earlyish start. Cracked on up the rough track through Akjoujt after about 15 mins. At 09:30 an enforced stop when Mike got a puncture. The road is rough long and dusty.

Stopped for a brew at 11:00 and then spotted the Bukima truck making way off the road. Of course they kept going. When they came back spent a couple of hours catching up on the last 3 days. Then parted ways again and drove along the corrugations to Attar. Need to make about 70 kph to smooth the corrugations but it feels as though it's shaking the vehicle apart. Need a thorough check in the near future. One forward jerry holder is working loose. Spent the afternoon in Attar filling up with food and water and trying to get reliable information on the piste ahead. Estimates range from 6 hours to 5 days. Water supplies were very por in Attar and we were to find the water we did get was almost undrinkable as it was so salty. Ate meat stew and couscous at the local hotel then headed out at 21:00 to camp. I don't like driving in the dark especially when main beam only work on 'flash'

It was to be an early start so up at 06:30. However vehicle checks showed some problems. The worst being that all four engine/gearbox mountings on the V8 have fractured. Mike also has a fuel tank leak which we hope to have sealed with soap. I have various minor problems but think I am still OK - such as the headlight switch being blocked with dust.

Rob & Simon get about 10 km up the road then decide their engine is moving too much and turn back.

Leave main road.

Wrong. A few miles later met a lone cyclist who was returning from Chinguetti which nestles in the sand dunes.

After long discussions, nearly arguments, we ended up hiring a guide for 15,000 UM ($150) who agrees he will take us to Tidkija in two days. Paul is not happy about the situation and rightly so, he has been presented (pretty nearly) with a fait accompli which ignores that his visa runs out on the 9th.

Left Chinguetti just after 16:00 and headed straight into the sand dunes. Very soft going but only got stuck once. Engine very hot. Are waiting for Mike and pumping the tyres back up. Carried on over more mixed ground but still a lot of soft sand. Is it like this all the way, if so will be hard driving to get through in two days.

At end of the day had a major worry when stalled and didn't restart - battery sounded flat. Switched lights off and checked starter motor connections and started OK. See what tomorrow brings.

A cold night. 8°C at 07:00. Left about 07:15 after persuaded Mike to start his engine. The glow plug circuit was playing and he wanted to find out what the problem was, but when we tld him to ignore the glow plugs and just see if it would start, she started fine. Stopped for lunch at 13:30 having done a hard 109 km. First 14 through sand took 2 hours. Mike bogged repeatably, myself two or three times. Stunning scenery varying from dunes to hard rocky plains with steep escarpments.
One part took us over a pass which was rocky up and very sandy down. Doubt whether is possible in reverse. Fuel consumption is high due to amount of soft sand. Am down to 1/4 tank which means consumption is about double the tarmac value (i.e. ~22l/100 km). Have 200 - 250 km to go and 80l + so should be OK. But glad was conservative.

18:30 stop as it gets dark. Passed a well about 5 kms ago and filled one jerry (better than the Attar water). Going still very varied with the track being engulfed with live dunes. Passed one large truck going the other way and they must have warned the guide of what's coming as shortly after had the worst bogging of the day despite the guide laying out a track for us. Also got beached with the breakover angle on a couple of occasions.

Very glad to have done this route. It is very demanding. Also very glad to have the guide as it would have been a major undertaking without and inevitably would have taken longer. When on the track it is obvious, but when forced to make a detour....

Disappointed to only have made 150 km for the day but at least we have achieved that.

Happy Birthday!

Are in an expanse of soft sand with a dodgy clutch hydraulic system. Ow! just dropped the Landie 2 ft off a dune. That smarts. A quick check shows no damage. The sand goes on trackless except for the occasional faint tracks that suddenly appear as if called by the guide. It's desert but still vegetation around. Have a stop at a nomad's dwelling then over about 10 km of mixed terrain mainly packed sand but some rocky sections. Mike stops for 20 mins to repump his tyres. Idiot. I had to re-trace to find him, as he didn't have a usable spare, if he had had another puncture, he would need my spare. The guide was telling me to keep on going as we'd be back in the sand soon. Sure enough and it got sandier and sandier. Ended up tracking along the base of a huge dune then broke out onto another sandy plain. Then at about 93 km for the day hit a sandy wadi and had good travelling for about 20 km. Very scenic. Red sand against black rocks, green trees and camels. Eventually the guide instructed us to break out , took us up and over a rocky ridge (move these rocks) then back into the wadi which was now a box canyon. Straight up he said. 30° slope, maybe more, of sand. All of our instincts and what we had learnt over the previous week, said it was impossible. Took it in 3rd low and got half way - Amazing. Sand ladders and 1st saw us to the top and time to repump the tyres. End of the sand. So he said. Soon got bogged again and dropped the pressures a bit. I had prepared for rock. Only a few kilometres and we were into another wadi and soon (at about 138 km) passed Rachid. Pressed on but with light fading and the track getting sandy (out of the wadi) gave up for the night. Tidjikja tomorrow. A little mouse /shrew investigated the camp at bedtime.

Off just after 07:00. The stars are so bright after the moon sets at about 05:00. Passed a Merc 4WD on the route and arrived in Tidjikja at about 09:00 and 35 km later. Am empty of fuel apart from the 10 gallon reserve. 452 km from Attar, about 370 from Chinguetti. Looks like average of 22l/100 km. Double tarmac consumption.

And so we wait. The town is out of money and out of diesel. Noone knows when the latter will arrive. Seems to stuff our visas. Mike's Landie is also dead with a fractured clutch pipe. The pipe has been repaired but is taking an age to get it back together again. The old (?) guide takes his leave in the market with a gift of a frying pan we had never used.

Still we wait for Mike. They cross-threaded the pipe union so it's about 19:00 and we still don't know if it will work. On the good side we have obtained 60l of diesel for FF200 from a group of EEC engineers we met earlier on the piste. I hope we have enough. We reckon we need 50l each to do the 200 km to the tarmac. We had 60l between us already so we should make it with 10l each to spare. If we don't get lost.

So left town in the dark at about 20:00 and drove for an hour and a half. Made 33 km over a good track though sandy in places.

Life is weird. Left at usual time to back track and check some tracks about 1 km away. Met a local who told us we were on the wrong road and the turn off was 18 km away (it was 14). Backtracked. The junction is obvious in day light but it is easy to assume the wrong road is just a side track.

Once on the right track only make a further 10 km before Mike broke down again. Clutch flexible hose this time. I think even Paul must now accept he won't get out of the country before his visa expires.

And back to Tidjikja to look for a replacement pipe. Whatever my range was I've now lost 33 km from last night plus 51 km this morning.

Spent another 2000 UM to get a 2nd hand hose. Got back and got it fitted by 15:30. While waiting I siphoned the reserve tank making the main tank about 2/3 full (i.e. a range of 400 km on tarmac about 200 km in sand). We have 200 to do. It's going to be tight.

Stopped for the night having done 98, just short of half way. The track has been fairly good if mixed, but some of the ruts are more than Landrover deep. Mike got bogged 5 times in short order. Passed a small village at 35 and 75 km out.

Tank is still reading over 1/2 full so should be OK. We then hit our no money it's the (Moslem) weekend problem

Usual start back onto the track. Very sandy in places with deep ruts. 2nd gear is difficult to change down into which doesn't help. Track tops out on the mountain. Very rocky. View over sea of sand below. Drop down well made track to Moudjeria. Nice place. Police very helpful & friendly. Warned track was 10 km of sand then improved. Also told us we should be able to change money at Achrat(?) Track was through sand but ruts not so bad. Passed by the EEC chaps travelling at speed. Superb scenery. Then broke out into hamada plain and made good speed. Ended up on Sangrafa road and hit the tarmac 6 km later than expected. It was a major relief to find the road, as I stopped when we had completed the expected distance according to the Michelin map. I had added a little to account for errors, but were standing in the middle of a sandy plain, trying to decide whether we should return to our last know point, when we noticed this car speeding along in the distance. The speed it was going at meant it had to be travelling on a made road. Meanwhile Mike's clutch has lost all its fluid again.

Went to Sangrafa 3 km West but could not change money. Put 8l into Mike's using the last of our Ums. Then travelled 50 km to Achat. Found the Germans but actually dealt with a Belgium who very kindly changed 700FF for us. Now we had the money the local station did not have a pump that worked. Travelled a further 30 km to the next station and finally filled up. 68l into a 68l tank.

Have had enough sand for now. Bring on the dust.

Start to make progress. Get to Kiffa at 09:00 where Mike insists on looking for a new clutch hose. The police spot us and try to get us registered and the passports (containing expired visas) stamped. But it's Friday and the commissar is not interested so we wait for Mike.

Vegetation has changed a little to Savannah with grass covering the ground between the acacia trees.

Got to Ayoun and checked in. This town has a barrier across the road. Told to clear customs at Kobenni, I hope that's right because it is 100 km across a rough track. Were also told Nioro has no diesel. Possible but we have no money so we press on. Track is rough and sandy but nothing compared to what we have been through. Off track is dry grassland and loads of tiny thorns.

Worry of the day is my rear main seal as was dripping oil visibly in Ayoun. I hope it was just the long run and thin oil.

Mike also managed to kill a goat and a bird along the way. The owner of the goat looked like he was going to try and stop me with his camel. However he decided that having already lost a goat, to have his camel knocked out from under him was not a good idea, and he got off the road.