Namibia

Took the same road out on the advice of the Austrian. Takes 2 hours this time as I push along. Then up the road to Shakawe where we catch up with Stan. We leave him at the police station to wait for the others and we go on to the border. Miss the main road and do some more soft sand before getting to the border. Get through in about 15 mins.... Continue on to Popa Falls and wait outside for the rest. They’re about 1 hour behind. Decide that as we can all stay on one site it’s worth spending the night. Pleasant grassy spot reminiscent of Epulu but much better facilities. Nominee for the best shower in Africa. Spend time talking to a variety of people.

Spend the morning round the falls. Go for a bit of a walk and take a couple of photos. The campsite empties quite dramatically. We leave about midday and head off down quite a bad gravel road. Pick up some fuel at a 24 hr station. Tar starts a few km before Rundu where the rest fuel up. Drive on for another hour before making camp in rough bush. Those thorns are sharp.

T’was cold overnight. 3.8 ° C at 07:20, just after sunrise. No one was up early and breakfast was fairly fast. Got to Grootfontein about 10:30 and all changed money at the banks. We went on to see the Hoba meteorite. Was a bit surprised as was really expecting a rock, but it’s a huge chunk of metal, even shiny in places. On to Tsumeb where we did some shopping, checked out on info and visited the beer garden. Then out to the lake for the night.

Something in last night’s dinner didn’t agree. Not bad but not good. Drove on to Namatoni along fairly boring roads. Stopped at the lodge outside Etosha for Stan to store his bike. Disaster. The back left is half flat and end up having to change it just short of the camp. My first puncture. Get settled in the campsite and the others started drinking. Went for a game drive to one of the waterholes. Watched zebra and giraffe plucking up courage for a drink for 2 hours then elephant came in. Back to the camp before sunset, seeing hyena, ostrich, kudu, springbok on the way. Today is the anniversary of the start of the Cowboys trip which is an excuse. Gets a bit rowdy in the restaurant but surprisingly no complaints.

A better game drive this morning going out round Fishers Pan. At the Aroe waterhole saw a lot of game, wildebeest, zebra, kudu and oryz. Pan quite amazing as well, a light green colour. Back for a lazy afternoon as still am not right. Out again for a late afternoon waterhole watch, but much the same as yesterday, hot in the wagon with giraffe dithering about. Did see some dik-dik and hyena as well.

Lowriders and Powderpuffs turn up during the day. Got up early for a piss to find Orion in the night sky again, for the first time since Arusha.

Off early again and hardly on the way before we pass the Danish truck and realise there is a cheetah out on the plain. Quite far away. Go to the nearest waterhole in vain hope. Continue and do a drive seeing the usual animals then end up at the water hole where we spend three hours watching what happens. Plenty of zebra, kudu, springbok and oryz. Quite cluttered pictures. One oryz and a warthog fall in the water and only saw the warthog make it out. Giraffe and one elephant also turn up. Interesting just watching the ebb and flow of life at the hole. Get back at 13:30 and spend the afternoon reading and poring over maps. Andy has got the survey map from the Powderpuffs, so are better prepared for the NW. Campsite is getting extremely busy.

A really good day. Slow start as we are moving camps, so didn’t get away until 10:00. Head for Batia as a start but nothing there so continue to Gvas. Are fortunate as we have barely taken in the setting (nice with blue water and green fringes) when a herd of elephants come in. Spend 20 mins or so drinking and bathing before suddenly heading off again. A lot of young in the group maybe 11 out of the 19. Quite dramatic as they headed in. From there headed for the Etosha viewing area of the pan. Nothing to the horizon for 200 degrees. Impressive for the isolation. Back then for lunch at Halale, Cowboys are just leaving, we decide to stay. Go out to Rietfontein for late afternoon and are followed by the Powderpuffs. Not a lot there and we are commenting on the nervousness of the solitary giraffe "For it to be that threatened there would have to be a lion amongst those bushes" when we spot a male lion among the bushes. Ah. He lies down again then a female stands up and looks around, stalks the giraffe, chases and looses, goes for a drink and wanders off. Determine that there are two lions and the lioness, didn’t see any more of the pride. Stay late and chase the sun back stopping to clock a couple of bat eared foxes. Through the day also saw a couple of mongooses, tseebie (topi) and another gyrsbok (I think). Back in camp just before the gates closed and went to the waterhole with some beers, but nothing spotted apart from a couple of jackals.

Up and off back to Rietfontein in case the lions are still there, but no. Cruise round the waterholes and Mark spots two rhinos near Sueda. Watch them for about half hour, well matched pair. Carry on to Okfanshau (?) where there’s quite a lot of game - usual selection of antelope, then on to Gemsbokolakte, again a good selection in quite an open area but didn’t stay long. On to Okaukuejo for lunch. To find eleven lions and four rhino were seen the previous night - puts our sightings in perspective. Spend the rest of the day there watching four lionesses and waiting for something to happen. Carry on through the evening when the lionesses get more active. Quite affectionate to each other and stalking elephant and giraffe - for fun I presume. Rhino also turns up and giraffe and springbok are seen in the distance. Take some long exposure using the tripod. Get quite drunk on a bottle of rum and retire sometime after midnight.

Yeah well, a slow day generally. Had intended to do some work on the car but didn’t feel up to it. Went out in the afternoon to the ghost tree forest. Bit weird, but a long way for what it was. The Aussies had spotted a cat on the way out so followed them back and reckoned, with the aid of the bins and the top of the car, that it was a cheetah.

Dinner very late that evening after Simon had excelled in buying a can of corn as the makings. Got a splitting headache, possibly low blood sugar.

Got on and did the work this time. Mark left about 08:30, getting a lift on a tour truck. Nothing major on the car, but it is still using a lot of oil. Afternoon spent around the waterhole - the old girl has reappeared - after a fairly liquid lunch. Dinner in the evening at the restaurant, then spent drinking brandy with Baasi, a SA farmer Pete had met. Retired after midnight.

Watch the old girl for part of the morning but nothing is happening so get packed up and leave about 11:30. Make our way back with Stan as an extra passenger, dropping in at waterholes as we go. Large herd of elephant at Olephantesbad (appropriately) , counted 28. Stopped at Halali for lunch then on back to Namatomi. Stopped for an hour at Kalkhuuewel and suspect lions had been around, but saw nothing. Saw a couple of hyenas through the day and another at Koinachas, where we had gone in because a dozen mongoose on the road. Chatting with a Dutch couple about their experiences in SA during the evening.

And so we leave what will probably be the last game park we visit. Cowboys go first but are stopped at the gate for not paying for fuel. Stan sorts out his bike, he’s leaving it for a further three weeks, then on up the road to Ondangwa. Nothing of note on the road. Got there and Simon changes money. Back into Africa, sandy streets in town and open air markets, though there are supermarkets as well. Restock with provisions. Gets cluttered as Stan and Liz are catering separately.

Find a tyre repair shop and get the puncture repaired. Looks like it was a cut in the tyre wall had nipped the tube. Got back to the others and found them in a bar talking to the black owner and having drinks bought for them. Go and get filled up and eventually leave at 18:20. Getting dark but try to find Arnie, the Dane who the Cowboys know. When locate him, he has gone to Windhoek, so end up driving up the road a bit and sleeping just off the side. A bit exposed, a bit noisy.

Quite a noisy night, so not a late start. Drove up to Ruacana and got lost. Sign said Ruacana straight on, so we did, down off the plateau to the falls turn off. The realised we had to go to Ruacana Deep (?). Filled up but no bread and no real provisions. Back to the turn off and the falls in no-mans land. No water. Then down to the Okauahene lodge road. Steep in places and a bit uneven but no real low ratio stuff. Bit of a Sunday afternoon drive. Couple of places where could go wrong, one came to a village, the other headed up out of the flood plain area. Came across a number of Himba people, very very elegant, especially some of the women. No pictures as reckon are still too Westernised. Late in the afternoon came across two Europeans we had met at the turnoff. They had stalled and couldn’t restart. Bottle found the solenoid cable was loose and we got them jump started.

Camped in a nice spot by the river (two photos). Stan gets Pete to shave his head in the evening.

Day spent crossing the Zebra mountains. Road got quite rocky soon after we left the campsite. A well defined track but a bit more axle articulation, Pete managing to lift a wheel once. Also quite deep wadis. Road very scenic all the way. Stopped for lunch shortly after leaving the Zebras and swam in the river. Afternoon was a bit of a failure as missed the turn off, the road practically went back on itself. Questioned it at the time and in hindsight was quite obvious. Were reassured when a G-wagen of Germans went past. Turned round when we met them coming back ~ 17 kms detour. Got back to the right road and stopped shortly after. 09:30 to 17:15 with an hour for lunch. Slow going over the Zebras, say 10 kph, but would have been at the falls if we hadn’t detoured. Took some photos of the Himba women we met in the morning. The red ochre and jewellery does make them very photogenic.

And on to Epupa. Couple of places where the road forked, the 2nd where the map predicted a left fork. Once had convinced ourselves it was time to move away from the river, got over dry river then found a painted rock pointing to Epupa. Still it gave confirmation though Stan still wanted to double check. He is at odds with me and (I believe ) the others, coming up with alternatives I have already discarded. I never did like that, I make decisions. Once away from the river had one more rough rocky section over a spur before coming back to the river then Epupa itself. Coming in from Ruacana we missed the signs so had to ask around to find the campsite and falls. Quite obvious really.

It is a nice spot and the gorge is a narrow defile, but it is already popular and will soon be just another campsite. The local Himba are already on the scrounge and a bit of a nuisance. Went over the map and logistics in the afternoon (to forestall Stan who wants a refuel run to Opuwo). Mustn’t discard it out of hand, but could probably have done Ruacana/ Opuwo on the main tank. To do the Marienfluss and down to Palmwag is approx. 700 km, at 20l/100km is 140l, have about 180l left giving more than 20% contingency, on a 50% over tarmac consumption. If made soft sand consumption (and we haven’t used 60l from Ruacana) would strand us 100km short of Palmwag. From Orupembe, Opuwo is 100km closer then Palmwag - so can wait to Orupembe to decide.

Day spent at Epupa. Pleasant enough place but not that special. Quite nice if you walked up the ridge downstream of the falls. Campsite itself is very dusty and some of the local Himba are a bit imposing. Write some postcards and checked the vehicle but mainly spent the day relaxing and reading.

Got away about 10:00 and down the road to Okangurati (?). Reasonable road, bit corrugated but high box all the way. Got to Ok about lunchtime and had a beer in the local shop. Has been a fenced in compound but now in disrepair. Left about 13:00 on the road to the pass, checked off the landmarks as per the article (see last page of journal). Rather rough road, similar to Ruacana but the scenery is less interesting. Last stretch down to a sandy plain, got quite rocky again, then I lost all the clutch fluid. Simon crawled under found a loose fitting and tightened it all up, then bled the system. Took about 30 mins, camp was a further 15 mins from there. Passed a Himba grave, surrounded by cow skulls and stopped to photograph a couple of Himba women.

Off by 09:30. Stopped at Otjchende kraal to take some photos, two bags of maize flour, but should have stopped at Otjchanda before as was a better looking village.

Windmill wasn’t running but got water from a handpump just before the terrain got very rugged again, and stayed that way (low ratio) to Van Zyl’s pass. The view from the top is impressive, like looking over a golden sea. The road down was steep and rocky, but level so Kev had no problems. Once on the Marienfluss it was back into high ratio, but it had taken 4 hours to do that first 27 km. The rest of the day was fast cruising, although the track got corrugated after we joined the S road. The area is beautiful with the grassland stretching to the rugged hills. Dotted round with fairy circles. Got to Otjonungwa in mid afternoon to find that camping there is also, as Epupa, under supervision. Camped under an Ana tree on the river. Spotted some springbok on the way up and a large lizard earlier in the day. Also took photos of a strange baobab like tree but very small and in flower.

Everybody decided on a slow start, independently, so weren’t away until 11:00.

No surprises on the way back down the road. Turned off onto the Rooidrum track. Still corrugated, bit rocky towards the end. Waited at the drum for about an hour for the Cowboys to turn up. They’d had their aux. tank leaking. Carried on and met a JCB (!) coming the other way. No other traffic. Few springbok along the way and one ostrich. carried on into the Hartmann valley but road very corrugated. Cowboys slow on such stuff. Stopped at 17:00 only part way up the valley in the middle of a plain. Bit windy but died later.

A bastard of a day. Left about 09:00 and retraced back down to the sign, then on to the middle turn off. Realised that the other road from the sign was probably a cut through. Road down to Orupembe was reasonable but corrugated, caught a few bumps harder than I should. Being a bit hard on the car and it showed as later noticed the cracks are back in the bulkhead. Stopped at Orupembe to get some water. Couple of Himba around but not very photogenic, on to Purros and at first looked like being a good road. But the corrugations were horrendous, side roads were OK when they were there but when you had to go on the main track it was hell. Did not enjoy driving at all, caught between trying to make speed to get it over with and car care. Still it should be, almost, the last of the hard stuff. No water at Purros, the river is dry. Temp during the day got very high, up to 36 ° C. Very barren on the middle of the trip by the first turn off. Nothing.

An easier day despite being Black Friday. Stopped at Purros, but the people were Herero and selling artefacts for cash only. Their vegetable ivory carvings were interesting but not at R5 each, overpriced for us. Continued over a slightly corrugated road past the two windmills then into a rocky area where the road dropped down into Seisfontein. Road signs started to appear in profusion. In Seisfontein, found the local shop, the others seem to have closed down and the town was quite quiet. Shop was reasonably stocked but no beer. Went on to the waterfall at Ongongo and had a swim. Consensus was R10/person/night was too much but still had to pay for the swim. Drove down 10 km and set up camp a little off the road in the canyon the article had driven through. Very little sign of traffic in the valley but the river was flowing.

Very windy overnight but I slept reasonably. Continued down the graded road, dusty. Arrived in Palmwag mid-morning with the wind still blowing. Fuelled up but arrived with 50l which was about what I expected from Epulu. Palmwag wasn’t up to much. Might have been OK if the wind hadn’t been blowing and the locals had been a bit more friendly.

Carried on after a beer and a bit of provisioning. Scenery changed to more mountain and sand. Turned off to Burnt Mountain when the Cowboy’s Hi lift fell off and their earth strap was loose. Visited the organ pipes which were interesting but not spectacular, then the burnt mountain, which was dismal. A slag heap. Maybe it will be better in the morning sun but am not convinced. Yet more discussion about why we are going there (Khorixas, Terrace Bay) why not do this or that. Pisses me off when we seem to have agreed something then half way through questions are asked. Makes sense to me to have a rest and reprovision at Khorixas. Supplies might not be great there but are likely to be the best we’ll get.

Well it was no better in the morning sun. Still a slag heap. Move out to the petrified forest which was more interesting, and being just off the road, more convenient. But why are they using bits of fossilised wood to mark the paths? On from there into the wind to get to Khorxias about midday. Start off drinking, which goes on to midnight, punctuated with some cokes on my part and dinner in the restaurant. Bit of a lager louts party, John in particular being out of it and having three main courses. As the evening wound down, John and Simon were thrown in the pool.

Copy some Getaway articles from the SA chap. His windscreen and front of the vehicle was well sandblasted, almost opaque. Went into town, changed money, posted mail got some food then waited for the Cowboys to get their welding done. Got speaking to a German who followed us out of town and recommended a bush trail from Burnt Mt. to the Park. Sounded good but the Cowboys didn’t want to do it. So we went alone, with Mike as passenger. Back out to Burnt Mt. then on following quite a clear track. Or so we thought. We should have come to a feature the guy had described - Doris crater - but we didn’t. We were sticking to the best trail and heading S and W. Found a bush camp and reckon the trails must be used by some safari operator. But were heading in the general direction and will either come across a road or the sea. That’s the theory. Camped in a dry river bed.

A quiet night. Get up with the sun and have breakfast. Then set off over a stony desert. After a while get to a sandy plain with a number of game tracks off to the side. Stick with what seems to be the main track. Spot an oryz and four mountain zebra in the middle of the wilderness then come across the spring they have been drinking in. Carried on and dropped into a river gorge but came back out. Then spotted more oryz and another spring. From here realised we were climbing a valley and also heading NE, so turned round and went back to the spring. Followed a faintly marked track down into a valley and along the valley floor.

Passed into the park, which was reassuring as although we had been heading S & W had no confirmation we were on a route that went anywhere. Hadn’t expected it to be like this and was getting a little concerned. Especially after Simon stalled and the Landie was reluctant to start - I know the vehicle and that sounded like a battery with no charge. If we had vehicle failure and didn’t know where we were.... Drove down through beautiful bleak scenery until about 15:00 when we made camp under a winterthorn. Then the wind got up.

After the wind, it got damp. Then overnight, started to loose the stars. Morning was mist shrouded, but it cleared quite quickly. Wasn’t totally surprised when the engine failed to start. Jumping from the 2nd battery didn’t really help, but it started no problem with a push - I'd parked on a rise the night before. Didn’t want to stall in soft sand though. The track very quickly headed into a series of dunes and we lost sight of it, but the going was generally good. The tracks reappeared as they dropped into the steep sided water bed, then sheared right and up a tributary valley. As we suspected it took us up to the plateau where travel was infinitely easier, although the cloud line and the coast still seemed a long way off.

Back to the gate and get a permit this time. Then transit the park, stop for a walk on the beach and at Toscanini, but it’s all pretty bleak. Stop at the exit gate to see the chief warden expecting a lecture but all he does is charge us for today and we don’t remind him of our transgressions. Carry on South. The campsites along the way are very exposed with no facilities so keep going. Stop at Henties Bay for a late lunch (of pie and chips) then on to Swakopmund. Find the Cowboys at Mile 4 so book in and have a shower.

Go into town and have a good feed (baked camembert) at the Western Saloon. Then go to Kuchis, but not much happening so wander off to find the others at their favourite bar. Drink there till midnight then down to the local disco with the barmaid. She has to work hard to get any of the lads on the floor.. Stay there till 02:30 when the Gregorian Chant starts - can’t dance to that. Take the lass home and have a cup of coffee before taking the rest home as they fall asleep around her flat. Get back to camp about 04:00.

Have disconnected the spare battery as still having starting problems. Am hopeful it may be a collapsed cell in it which is causing the power drain.

Day in Swokopmund. Late start as could be expected. The Opposition (aka the Cowboys, aka the Tonka Toy)head off for Sandwich Harbour, we just go into town. Wander around and look at some bookshops then have a late breakfast at the Treepunkt. Wander round some more then Kev and I head back to the campsite. Very windy so can’t get any rest. Go back into town in the evening to watch the film ‘Scent of a Woman’. Reasonable but rather weak plot. Then back to Fagin’s to continue where we left off yesterday. Follow the same round, Fagin’s, Scandels, her flat. Players slightly different as Simon is sick and goes back in the Tonka Toy. Rather like Swakopmund, it’s got a clean fresh feel and the people are friendlier than Zim (Vic Falls in particular). No White Water Rafting crowd here. Still having battery problems, had to use an African start twice.

Don’t wake up till 11:00. Decide we should still leave as planned. Don’t get away until 13:30 which means the town is closed (cf. Germany). Will never know if Yvonne turned up at the Cafe. Shame to leave like this but get on the road to Windhoek. Rather boring journey. There’s supposed to be a Herero festival in Okahandja so stop there but it’s not very impressive. Bush camp just out of town.

Into town where spot Rob driving past, collect the rest and find his Landie and then Lou. Watch the procession of the Herero visiting the cemeteries. Better then yesterday, but why are the men dressed in colonial uniforms? Don’t stay long and head for Windhoek, have some beer on the way and drive through a red light as a result. Find Tucker’s Tavern but are told there is no room. Have a few drinks waiting for the others plus some food. A slippy slope. The rest turn up, both blues and the white, so we have a full session and do end up staying, although I sleep on the roof. Simon throws ketchup over Rob early in the proceedings. Pete does not like being told he is full of sh*t.

A vegetative day. Not particularly because of hangovers, but more just that we haven’t had one for a long time. Have breakfast in town, check post (none for me) then wander around. Get prices for a new battery from R238 to R281 which isn’t too bad. The clans are gathering in Tucker’s, in addition to the four Landies, Stan makes it back from Etosha and Jerome and Jelande (of the NL Landie) turn up on foot - they have scrapped their Landie. So don’t manage to write letters as intended. Go out to see ‘Indecent Proposal’ in the evening which is terrible and not worth the 30 min walk to get there.

Took the Landie round to the auto electrical place. Disagreement over the problem, so left it there so they could charge the battery and test the cells properly. Wandered round town again, but didn’t do anything too stressful. Went back in the afternoon and yes a cell has collapsed, so get the new battery. All the technicians in this town seem to be German. Took the vehicle for a run just to make sure it is reasonably well charged. Evening spent in Tucker’s Tavern again. Tonight is trivial quiz night, so the whole group sits at one table and we manage a reasonable showing.

The others are up surprisingly early and have breakfasted before me. Spend the morning cleaning out the car. The amount of dust is ridiculous, especially under the false floor. Got my last hidden money out (from behind the cover for the rear lights), to find it has not stayed sealed, so have £200 of soiled notes. Simon is going to the bank and changes some of the worst. Do a batch of washing then finish off a letter to ESAC. Go to the PO and check Post Restante, but no letters , so phone home - it’s about time anyway. Everything is well but there should be two letters. They’ve been filed under D.

Evening is spent on a slow pub crawl round the back of Windhoek. Alte Feste to the Roxy. The Roxy has a small band playing, but I give up at midnight and walk home. Am woken at 05:00 by Andy taking the Tonka Toy out for a drive?...

Wander into town to take some photos, then back and wash the car. Slowly get organised and head out to the airport to meet Simon’s sister, Anna. We arrive to find her through formalities and waiting for us. Head back to Windhoek, fuelled up and headed out on the C26 for Seisrein. Road gets quite dramatic over the passes but is a very well made road. Stop by a dry river bed and set up camp.

Carry on down to Seisreim, stopping at Solitaire to fill up. Cowboys got there the previous night but have done nothing since. Take Liz on board and go for an afternoon tour. The canyon is quite impressive, carved through consolidated rock. Then Dune 45, which we climb a little of and back to Elim dune. Some lovely apricot colours, enhanced by the acacia trees in the foreground. Get back and cook, have finished by the time the Cowboys get back from the vlie. They are also stoned, which provides the evening entertainment.

Up at 05:45 for heavens sake. It’s pitch black with Orion overhead. Drive back down past Dune 45 and along the sandy track to the vlie. The track is not at all difficult. Get to the vlie just before sunrise and take the necessary photos. Then start climbing the dune. Didn’t intend to go all the way to the top but ended up there. Dunes much more chaotic than the Sahara, but dramatic. When get back down Kev spots an oryz so we try and get the customary photos. Have breakfast then return. The dunes on the way back look much better, a richer colour ranging from apricot through bright reds to silver. Pack up and fuel up then head South for Fish River. Quite a scenic road at one point climbing very slowly to a pass. Lots of capped plateau hills. Get on the tarmac then find a river bed to stop in as thunder and lightning play overhead.

Suprisingly didn’t get wet. Actually slept better than I’ve done for the last week. Got on the road by 09:30 and headed for Seeheim. Couldn’t find the town. Only a few houses and no obvious fuel supply. Should have been able to make Ai Ais, but no contingency so go to Keetmanshoopop, a 90 km round trip to get fuel. Allowed Anna to phone home and change money, and us to do some food shopping. On to Hobus and Fish River. Tis an impressive canyon, but no way to get the perspective on it. It’s deep, deep to the eye, but photographs will be boring. Drove round to some of the other viewpoints, but not much difference. Canyon is very meandering, like it’s been cut by a very mature river. Added our comments to the visitors book after the Bollux family (known to us as the Cowboys)and headed for Ai Ais. Found the Cowboys in the pool. Ate in the restaurant.

A relaxing day. Particularly early in the pool. Very pleasant. Gets too hot to be comfortable by midday. Do some washing and clean the Coleman. Climb up a hill to get a photo of the camp, disturbing a small snake on the way. Retire to the bar for a couple of beers, where it is decided we might as well stay. Plan had been to leave at 16:00 and bush camp. But the Cowboys are paying for the site, if anyone is and the facilities are good. So. Confirmed when two overland trucks arrive. Cook a chilli and have a few drinks in the bar.

A hard days driving. Leave Ai Ais at 08:00, having agreed with the gateman that the Cowboys would be paying. Follow the dirt road out to the tarmac. Just as well we stayed as it is desolate. Down to the Orange River and clear customs in a matter of minutes. SA records the engine number which is new.

From there South the vegetation slowly gets more dense and colourful with yellow and orange flowers and bright purple bushes. Road start to get boring and Kev gets into a boisterous mood. Stop at Springbok for a disgusting lunch and fuel up. Stop again at Bitterfontein for a snack and at Vanrhynsdorp to get some food. Probably should have stopped there as the guy at the info centre told us of a free (?) campsite. Continue and find the winery at Klawer has just closed. Go on to ClanWilliam to find the bottle stores closed and the campsite has no bar or shop.

Found the last couple of hours quite tiring. Also oil warning light was starting to flicker.