Western Sahara

Mike tried to take my hand off by starting the engine while I was tracing a leak in his bottom hose. No serious damage but I feel the fates are setting me up for something.

Ann Claude was sent on first thing with Freddie in the V8 to scout out Dahkla and start sorting the paperwork. We left camp for Layounne at 09:00. On the outskirts met another checkpoint which was the first to be manned by the military. In town the UN were in evidence along with high profile military presence.

Price of diesel has dropped dramatically. Although we expect to fill again in Dahkla we filled everything. This was a bit messy particularly with the rooftop jerries. Left at about 14:30 and spent 30 mins at the slowest checkpoint yet. I reckon the constable hadn't fully mastered reading & writing. Eventually caught the truck at about 17:45 just in time to find a campsite. Corrine from the truck (who knew Paul) travelled with me for the afternoon as without AC, I was on my one in the Landie. A German motorcyclist we met at the slow checkpoint reckoned there were at least 4 vehicles already waiting ahead at Dakhla but that it was only a matter of waiting.

At this camp, the truck set up a campfire with wood they had collected on the way. We hadn't thought to do that and now found there was no wood available, so we had to rely on our Coleman stoves until we got to Mali.

Another slow start delayed further when the connection for the stop cable fell off Mike's. Corrine travelled with me again until we had a quick lunch stop. The truck caught us up but didn't expect to get as far as us. Scenery quite varied with some cuttings but mainly flat with a variety of scrub or sand conditions. Wind very strong. Road very near the cliffs in places and had one quick photo opportunity.

Bit of a drama in the afternoon when two vehicles passed me at speed and a 5l can 1/2 filled with cement fell off the first and smashed the windscreen of the 2nd car, which prompted stopped in front of me. I was still off on the hard shoulder travelling at ~ 70 kph so had no chance to swerve or stop (when we saw cars behind, we always moved over so they could pass easily). I had to get off the road and had visions of an expensive roll even though I had slowed to about 25 kph by that time.

Are still passing signs with distances to Nouakchott and Dakar.

Arrived in Dakhla peninsular at about 17:30 and met the others. No good news. Some people have been here 6 weeks waiting for permission. But at least a convoy has not just left. Went into town for dinner and a couple of beers then found a place to sleep under the stars.

And still the wind blows. Went into town for a breakfast of coffee and croissants. Couldn't do much else as is (another ) holiday. Headed back to our campsite and found the truck parked there. Got the mask fins and snorkel out and went for a swim. Thereafter a leisurely afternoon. The truck passengers are getting restless as they don't know what is happening. (Who does?).

Alan & Steve 'lost' us when we dropped the vehicles into the cove for shelter and they drove straight past.

Was woken at 01:30 by the lads returning from town with some UN guys and a case of beer. Adrian excelled himself by relighting the fire by pouring petrol from a jerrycan straight on to it; getting the jerry alight in the process.

Went into town at 08:30 to find out what is happening. Usual administrative nightmare. Rumours of convoy setting off tonight. Filled up with fuel & water just in case.

Got back to camp and had lunch of omelettes then changed the oil and slicked the engine using oil donated by Adrian & Steve. The final word of the day was 'Yes there is a convoy going on Saturday and we're not on it'. Authorisation will not be through in time. Perhaps next week. Perhaps when we have waited long enough. Bought a Taureg scarf for 55D

Replaced or rather rearranged the tubing for the transfer pump to eliminate the kink. Reglued the trim on the passenger door. Then about 12:00 were informed we had to leave as the owner was coming for the weekend. We all packed up and headed off in convoy looking for a decent beach/campsite. Ended up 25 km from town. Were passed by two English blokes in their rally car - indicates the convoy has been delayed again and they are heading home.

Was Paige's birthday so were going to have a day of games. Just as we were about to start one of the other cars arrived to say that an aid convoy was forming and suggesting that we should attend in protest. So we broke camp and headed for town. Not a lot happened but interesting to see the other vehicles, mostly standard saloon cars. Had a party in the evening and I suffered badly from too much alcohol on an empty stomach. Crashed in the truck for the night.

Was sick overnight. Spent the day in the truck. By about 15:00 could at least keep a drink of water down. By 18:00 managed to get back onto solids so no permanent problems. Were visited by some chaps from the UN again in the evening. Slept on the roof as was fairly quiet until the wind got up at 05:00.

The engine started making a new noise a couple of days ago. Got time this morning to have a look at it and reckon it is probably the water pump bearing on its way out. Is not leaking but there is play in it. Can't afford to breakdown while in convoy so will replace it tomorrow I think. Afternoon spent on the beach behind the UN compound, the wind is now from the East. No news from the Province although rumours abound. It is now that the departure of the convoy depends on the intelligence re the location of the Politsario.

Late start following an extended party by Bukima. We didn't take part as we had no beer and I was still feeling a bit slow. It must have been about 02:00 by the time it got quiet. Changed the water pump without any great hassles. It even seems to have sealed quite well. See how this one lasts. As I was doing this Rob came over and remarked on the crack in my engine block. I had noticed it but just assumed it was a trace of anitfreeze from the work Dunsfold had done. Looking at it in the cold light of day, it was a crack. Now I was looking at going into the desert with a leak in my engine block. Went into town in the afternoon but too late for the bank. Rumour today says that the CIC for the southern region reckons nothing will happen 'for a month'. Are starting to talk about shipping again. I haven't made a decision but am inclined to aborting if we need to ship. £520 + air fare is a lot of money.

Another fruitless day. Turned up at the Province for the daily 'There is no news'. A reminder telex is to be sent today to the military. Mike has given up on this option and wants to head off and have a bash at the Eastern route. Problems of logistics start to loom of ensuring we can try the route and still not miss out booking the sailing on the 9^th - if we decide to ship.

17:00 and the medics (aka The Boys Brigade, the Poms, and Adrian and Steve) arrive in a cloud of dust to announce the authorisation has arrived! For 20 of the 29 in our party...

A visit to town ascertains that all the Bukima people excluding 6 Australians are OK. Rob is through, Simon is not. I'm through, Mike is not and Alan is through Paul is not.

A logistics nightmare but the options having been explored it is decided to try and get Alan to take the vehicle through and for Mike and Paul to fly round and meet it.

A nervous night is spent waiting to see whether it is all genuine or whether on the morrow we'll be told of some other problem which prevents departure.

The start of the end game. First to the province for 09:30 opening when we are requested to meet in the car park. We are extremely concerned because we have heard that the saloon car drivers have been causing disruption when they found they were not on the list. We fear their actions will result in the whole convoy being cancelled. A long list of names is then read out, including ALL our adopted group. The fun then begins as we are directed to various establishments to complete formalities. To the Surete first to fill out an exit form then a run around from Gendarmerie to military to Douane and then finally back to the Surete for the exit stamps in the passports. On then for a remarkably simple visit to the customs office and instructions to be at the car park at 18:15 for the vehicles to be inspected. The convoy departs at 07:00 tomorrow.

OOPS missed a part of the game. Back to the military at 17:45 to hand over the passports and have the details typed on yet another form.

They seem serious about this convoy.

In the evening, Greg the driver from the Bukima truck starts to hide items he doesn't want the Mauritanian customs to find. Alcohol is high on the list and he is putting most of it in one of his spare tyres, so I add my half bottle of whisky to the pile and Mike adds his bottle of Black Label. We have also been warned that in the first convoy, Swiss army knifes were very popular with the customs officers, so I lose mine in the diesel tank. Mike puts his in the radiator overflow bottle, which seems a strange choice.

An early start encouraged by the caller at the mosque as we spend the night rough camped in town. After roll call at the military and at 08:00 we leave Dakhla, 40 kms later turning right we head for Mauritania. Now I believe we are going through.

At the turn off, the full convoy is lined up, presumably to check we are all together. I am near the back, still on the Dakhla road, but can see the head of the convoy lined up on the road to Noadibou, with the military escort at its head. Finally we have solved the BIG problem - we have access to West Africa.

Road so far has been good (200 km to go). Road is close to the coast and can see the beach at many places.

With about 80 km to go we are making good time until we hit another (the last?) checkpoint. Here they cross check the passports with a copy of the telex and find that we have acquired a free loader. He arrived yesterday, seemingly, and managed to get processed but of course he does not have authorisation.... This delays us some time.