Zimbabwe

And so on to Harare. Stopped off on the way for a breakfast of pork pie, sticky bun, chips and a coke?? Arrived in Harare mid-morning and followed the blue one round in circles until we got pissed off and headed for the PO ourselves. Found out later they were trying to find Sable lodge to park up. We parked at the PO and on our way to check Poste Restante met Greg from the Bukima truck. Spent a few minutes chatting and arranged to meet for a beer. Only one letter from home. Posted on 28 April and really only answering questions from my previous letters. From there went for lunch at the Sand Rock cafe. A bit posy and expensive. Met Greg (and John from Okapi). Changed £ 100 at Z$9.5. Took John and Greg back to their campsite and collect some goods for Simon, then out to Coronation park. Bought a crate of beers, had a hot shower and waited for people to turn up. Roly, Jerome, Kiwi I all here plus other trucks we’ve never seen before.

The Lions match is to be videoed and shown at 12:00 tomorrow. The rest eventually turn up and we go into town to a steak house Z$24.00 for a big chunk of meat. Rob has two. Then get a taxi out to a pub near the campsite (The Red Fox), very English, very plastic. Have a beer there but fade fast and head for bed. Finding Harare cold.

Go into town for breakfast at Le Paris. Coffee is chicory but otherwise OK. Check PO again and find another letter among the ‘large’ items. Has my CV and answers queries from Nairobi. Got back to the site just in time to catch the Kiwi truck heading for the Harare Sports Ground. We all pile in as arranged to watch video of the Lions first test match. Kev went to watch it live and we meet him there. Match disappointing quality, but close, within one score all the time, but we loose. Copious amounts of alcohol consumed and things get a little rowdy. Shades off Kiwi I looses a shirt sleeve and it is decided it is best if we leave. Back to camp to dress more warmly then catch a lift , in a pickup truck to the steak house. I don’t eat or drink as am feeling a little off colour. Mark drops his steak on the floor and goes off in a huff. From the steak house catch a decrepit taxi, which keeps stalling, and goes through a red light, out to Flamingos. Tis early but dead and far out of town so turn round and go back to the Playboy; closed. End up at Marilyn’s where we stay until 02:30. The rest try and make it exciting by taking over the dance floor, upsetting a local who is the minister’s son and accompanied by bodyguards. He needs them as he is looking for trouble. Nothing flares even after the manager very clumsily asks us to leave. As we prepare to leave one of the clients is knocked out, don’t know why, by one of the bodyguards. Got back to bed at 03:00

Guy and Celia turn up during the day having lost their tent. Blew off the roof.

A slow day. Get up about 09:00 and have a shower. Most of the rest don’t appear till 11:00. Go up the street for brunch at the Chicken Inn. Fast food but adequate. Read up a bit on Zim and start planning the ‘Final Stage’, but not too serious. All in all a slow day and an early night.

8 Months on the road. Spend the day in town. Get in for breakfast at Le Paris and meet Rob. Then down to the British High commission to report our problems in Mozambique. The consul is mildly amused but also concerned and will take up the matter with the Mozambique embassy. Doesn’t expect an early reply.

From there wandered round town seeing what was about and pricing film processing. Put one print film in. Got back at about 16:00 and I retired for a rest. Feeling very bloated again and not 100%. BBQ with the Kiwis in the evening and I manage to recuperate enough to partake. Goes on well into the night and as people get drunk the antics get silly. Fire walking is demonstrated as is juggling hot coals. Then a game of 10 times round the broom handle. No eyebrows were lost.

Still not at my best. Get up at 08:00 and have a shower then over to see how people are this morning at Kiwi I. Everyone seems in remarkably fine fettle. Start some of the jobs to be done. Check out the glow plugs then try to start it. No Hope. Drain the primary and decide it’s air in the system. Drain the 2nd and still no joy. Eventually decide might as well change the fuel filter as well. Get it jump started in the end. But where did the air come from? Loose connections on the fuel lift pump, but shouldn’t be the problem. Take it for a run to get the batteries charged and to see if I can spot a diesel shop or a welding shop. Will really have to walk round the industrial estates.

Have now caught a cold. Go into town to get a few things. Got my CV copied but am advised by the agency that they can do nothing unless I have a work permit. Will have to approach the companies direct. Sod that. Pick up my photos. They have turned out well. Put the slides in for processing, will take a week. Lunch at Strachans then do some food shopping, then back to the campsite. In the evening went into town to the movies! Under Suspicion. Not bad.

Start to tackle the jobs. But first have two tyres to re-inflate (suspect Guy in retaliation for Cape MacLear). Then locate the LR breaker on the map and drive straight there. Ask about a wing, Z$500 for fibreglass, no decent 2nd hand in stock but would be Z$250. Ask about the welding and get a quote for Z$1500. Yeah, well thank you. Driving off I spot a diesel specialist so ask about the injectors. Yes it could be dirty injectors. Z$165 to clean them but another Z$160 per injector if the nozzles are u/s.

Go back to the camp and get some TCs out then back to town to cash them. Back to the shop and they take two hours to recon them. Write a letter to ESAC as I wait. When start up doesn’t seem much difference, still idles a bit rough and smokes just as much. Was it a waste of money?

Roly and co had their packs stolen when parked at the hospital. Scott and co had their carnet and passports stolen for the 3rd time.

Up to the pool hall for a few beers. Not playing well.

Bit of heat, turn the key and she fired straight away. If it stays like that it was worth the money.

Took the brown one into town and on to the local Leyland dealership looking for a wing. No joy, but the others got some bits they needed. Back to the welders to get a quote Z$1000 - 200 if you take the wings off. Now that’s much better. Will take it in next week. Lunch in a new plaza area - a ploughman’s without cheese or chutney - but the ham was good. Then back to the campsite to do some routine maintenance on the Landie. Finally tighten up the front left wheel bearing first noticed at Kembe Falls.

Go to town for a pizza (quite expensive) then do a circuit of the night clubs, trying to find one worth going into that would allow us in. After an hour end up at Marilyn’s, Simon and Kev get in free, the rest of us go home.

Get the lads up at 08:30, say quick goodbyes to the folks around, I’m sure we’ll meet again, then head off. Fill up, have breakfast then through town heading for Mana Pools. Stop for some shopping and again to refuel. Road very good with distance markers every 0.5 km again. Enter the park at about 15:00 and make our way to the campsite. Mike, Andy and Bottle come around for the evening spent drinking our white spirit and smoking Gold. Site visited by buffalo, hyena and honey badger.

Up earlyish to go for a drive and a walk. Succeed in finding an elephant which mock charged us. Don’t run !, but a fast retreat to a nearby tree was in order. Otherwise didn’t see much. Back for a lazy day in the campsite. Simon got to talking to a Namibian who had been brought up in Etosha. Went for a game drive with Mike and Andy so we could run the fridge. Not a lot of game, a few different antelope, but the attraction of the park is more the set up, well organised.

Early morning canoe safari. C2 with rather poor paddles and paddling positions. Cruise up river against the current (obviously) along with Mike and Andy and Bottle. Have some trouble finding the channel and avoiding hippos. Not a lot to be seen so after a couple of hours stop and go for a walk. Kev and I decide we’ll see as much by finding a good spot and waiting, which is what we do. A herd of antelope pass some quite close. Find the wind has got up so have to paddle back as well but get back in one hour. See some crocs on the way back plus one lizard chasing birds right into the water. Have lunch then set off. Say goodbye to Brent and Tracy - they’ve been walking with lions. God but the first 40 km of the road is rough.

Stop for tsetse fly control - a quick burst of insecticide - then up the escarpment, 3rd gear all the way so power seems OK. Got to Kariba about 17:30 and went to the country club for dinner. Lovely setting, then on to Moth camp for an early night.

Found the PO and handed over the letter from Gavin and Val to the Postmaster. Checked his Id then gave him Z$75. Acted as though it happened every day and was more concerned about me taking a package back to the UK for him! Moved on for a late breakfast at the Lake View Hotel then up the hill to the observation point. Quick photos then down to the damn itself. Leave passport and wander across. Very effective/efficient damn. Small but holding a lot of water. Filled up and moved out. Had lunch at the Clouds End Hotel at the junction. Iced beer. Then on to Karibi where Simon and Kev had a round of golf. Kev loosing two balls in the water trap. Stayed at the local campsite but very cold. Due to nearby reservoir? Early night.

Getting disappointed by the consumption figures. Seem to have used the best part of 0.5 tank for 160 km. Get to Harare on the tank but even then tis only 360 km. Need to do a full brim to brim test. Stopped at the caves on the way down. Well laid out and quite impressive for Z$2. Meet a tour group there. Are you looking to buy a Landrover? Yes. Contact us when you get to S.A.

Got back to Harare just after lunch and go out to the campsite to catch up with the news. Mark seems to be doing well for jobs. C has a 2nd interview. Rob is helping Jerome replace 3 valves in his 2.5 petrol. Runs very sweetly when they are finished. It’s been arranged to go round to Adam’s for dinner, The Girls doing the cooking, so get some beers in and drive round. Gets to be a heavy session, punctuated with a visit to Hollies the local pub. Drinking games go on as Rob and I play chess. We eventually leave at approx 03:00

A slow start after last night but I got up about 08:30 and start taking the wings off ready for it to be welded. Takes most of the morning. Decide to leave the welding until tomorrow and do the rest of the servicing.

Finnish it all by mid afternoon, so help Rob as he starts to get the white one ready for an engine removal and clutch replacement. Dinner order is confused so end up eating at the Chicken Inn. Games of pool then to bed.

Get the vehicle into the welders by 09:30. Sorry it’s a bad day. Try again tomorrow. Run round a few places looking for wings but no luck. Pack up some of my firewood and other stuff and take it to get it posted. Get back to find the white one almost back together. Arranged with Adam to meet in the evening but go to Wombles first. Nice restaurant but a bit pricey for overlanders and the steak is just silly, over 2 inches thick and of course not cooked evenly.

Get to Hollies about 22:30 to meet Adam and stay there until midnight. Take one carload home, the rest move on to a party.

Get a letter from home, all is well and a postcard from Hilary. Send a fax to Greg in Nairobi explaining our plans if he wants to meet us.

Get up about 05:00 to watch the rugby at Old Hararians. Rob had his locks attacked when he parked up at Sashas (?). The overnighters don’t see much of the match, Simon & Pete spending most of it asleep. Caroline and Kev do better. Lions win 20 - 7 so worth getting up for. Then take them all back to the campsite before reporting to the welding shop at 08:00. Nothing happens until about 09:15 when the boss turns up. Then get the vehicle in and start stripping it as the bumper is welded. The chap doing it is quite reasonable and I feed him with little jobs and consult over what needs to be done. Not as I expected as the flange has not torn, it isn’t welded on the vertical. Happy with the job, good value for Z$100. Back at the site for 12:00 as the others start to appear from their tents. Some then go on to watch the Springboks match whereas the Dakhla veterans wait to see Freddie. She doesn’t hang around long though and isn’t on the beers. We go into town getting a lift in a BMW from two Rhodesian racists. Then go out to Aguila’s in a taxi which suffers a puncture as we try to find the place. Not bad place really, Adam is there with Laura but Andy doesn’t turn up. Stay till about midnight then get a lift back.

Got up about 09:30 and continue putting the Landie back together. Get it all done and the electric’s working again by midday. Sort out the vehicle a bit more then go up the pool hall for a few beers and games. Return for dinner then back to the hall. Fill up as there is a rumour that fuel is going up.

So finally break the ties. Hope that Rob and Lou are happy on their own. Anyway we get away about 09:00, found out that Hwange is fully booked - SA holiday. Did some shopping then get out of Harare. No regrets, I find it a rather sad place trying to be something it isn’t. Left at about 11:00 and drove for Mutare where Simon took over. Thought we would stop at Hot Springs but are not made welcome and as the charge is Z$15 / person we don’t hang around and continue up the road for Chimanimani.

Are awoken by a herd of cows being driven along the path, I’m OK as I’m on the roof for the first time since Bamako. Break camp and drive on to Chimanimani, have a light breakfast at the hotel then do the local sights. Bridal Veil falls, like an overgrown water feature. Eland sanctuary - not an eland in sight. Drive up to the top of the Pork Pie hill (!?). Then back to the hotel. I get very cold as the day wears on despite having a hot bath. Have a meal in the restaurant served by Thunderbirds marionettes (sash, tight jacket and squashed hat). Retire to the tent by 20:00 to sleep.

Slow start as the weather is not wonderful. Drive up to the park but is threatening rain. Not for me when I’m run down. Simon ends up going up by himself and gets soaked. A shame but not really the weather for sightseeing. Return to town for lunch at the Bela restaurant then drive out. As we leave the temperature is 10.7 ° C, at 15:00!

Drive to Birchenough Bridge (see 20c coin), hotel is charging Z$20 per tent so drive on and find a spot to bush camp.

Still not feeling great and the weather doesn’t help. Starts overcast and grey and stays that way, with occasional bursts of rain, all day. Set off and get to Great Zimbabwe mid morning. On the way pass over Kyle damn wall, water well down but a mildly interesting road. Also pick up two Kiwi hitch hikers, well it was raining. Take them to the hotel where we have 11s then Scott and co turn up so the hitchers get an onward lift.

Are advised the cost has gone up from Z$5 to Z$30 overnight. Try to argue round it but only waste our time, eventually pay and Kev and I go in, Simon opts out. It’s worth the money, quite unlike anything else in sub-Sahara. Walls in remarkably good condition considering lack of mortar and foundations. The hill area is the most surprising to me - I had read descriptions of the great enclosure but you could easily miss the hill complex. Bit like an adventure playground with the maze of tiny twisty passages. Also found the source of the one cent coin and the national emblem - carved birds found on the site. Impressive could have spent more than the two hours we were there. Moved on to Masvingo looking for a cheaper campsite but still ended up paying Z$15 per head (except there were only two at the time of counting).

Sneak out into a dull grey day and head for Bulawayo. Have breakfast in a friendly fast food/greasy Joe’s in Zvishavane, then continue through the drizzle to Bulawayo. Arrive in the campsite at about 11 to meet Scott and his cronies. Pete arrives shortly afterwards and we all go into town to trace a spot to watch the rugby. Rendezvous at the Shelborne Hotel and decide Queens Sport Club is worth checking out. Do so and find Wimbledon is on and the bar is open, so we take up residence. Watch Becker and Sampras. Move out about 19:00 rather then wear out our welcome and go looking for some food. End up at the Chicken Inn and I get served with a raw cheeseburger....

Retire to the campsite to find Pete’s tent is firmly locked up in the office so end up putting up our two tents. Have a bath (!) and retire, this country is cold wet and driech at the moment.

Up at 05:00 to watch the final Lions test at the Queens Club. We get well thrashed. Have breakfast there then move back to the campsite where we pack up and move out. We have been told of a lodge where we can stay for US$3 / person. Get there and settle in to watch a video (Trading Places) and arrange to stay the night (one of 4 LRs, two brown, one blue one red). 11 Inverleith Rd, off Burnside Rd, quite far out of town. Move back to Queens to watch the women’s final at Wimbledon, poor Novotnov, just not prepared to actually win. This as the place fills up to get ready for the next rugby match (Springbok versus France) and take part in the sweepstakes. Springbok triumph and after some discussions helped along by Bottle, it is decided that Mike is outright winner of the sweepstakes, Z$130 thank you. Have a round at the club then move on, head for a pub the others know about which is in somebody’s front room. We’re the only customers but stay there until about 01:30, in front of the fire, listening to Zimbabwe white folk music. Then back to the lodge.

Ho hum. It’s tough. Get up about 09:00 and have breakfast then watch some videos until early afternoon. Go to the pool hall to watch the tennis but the reception seems poor (they are showing the Grand Prix) so back to Queens. Tennis is interrupted for the motorcycle grand prix but neither is very interesting. Have dinner at the Bon Voyage restaurant (chicken kebab plus banana split) then back to the lodge again to watch Never say Never again.

Day brightened up a bit and shows promise but still cold, cold, cold.

Out to Matapos Park for the day. Visit the MOTH shrine (what is MOTH?) and Rhodes grave. Strange place. Scenery quite beautiful but in a very rugged way. Move on to the park itself and spend a couple of hours, more for the scenery as very little game on view. Saw zebra & giraffe from one of the viewing platforms but most life trying to keep warm.

Back to Alan’s to cook a lamb roast. Watch one of the Rambo movies as it is cooking. Chat with Alan in the evening.

Pack up and leave. Do a shop while Simon gets his visa extended, then on to Hwange. Boring road to drive as almost totally enclosed in woody bushland. Stop for lunch on the way and turn up at the park about 15:00.

Check in then go for a game drive. Meet a herd of buffalo and another of elephant but you don’t see much to the side of the road. Cook dinner then retire to the bar.

A slow start . Have breakfast and leave with the Cowboys at about 11:00 heading for Robin’s. Stick to the tar as is 156 km. Don’t see a lot along the way as the bush is dense. A few elephant, particularly at one water hole (7). Stop for lunch at a viewing area (these things are really set up). See elephant, giraffe, zebra, wart hog and impala there. Move on after the Cowboys have pissed off leaving a pissed off Pete in our care. As have plenty of time do a loop out to a lake. Some high leaping impala, an imitation Swiss Army knife, a few kudu but not a lot else. Stop at crocodile pools and collect a few more elephant, then cruise into Robin’s camp. The cowboys and Scott and co are there.

Seemingly there was a hyena round the camp overnight, didn’t disturb me on the roof. Have decided we might as well stay here for another day as is cheaper then Vic Falls. Just stay in camp, read a book and start writing a letter home. The others go for a game drive in the afternoon but don’t really see anything. Cook a rather hot chilli for dinner. Hyenas much more active this evening with at least four cruising around, retire with a tyre lever.

Got away by 09:30 in convoy with the Cowboys till Kev realises he’s scored a hat from one of Scott’s passengers, so we return , then get back on the road to Vic Falls. Not much interest in the road and get to Vic Falls about lunch time, in time to change money. Meet Mark and Al (ex Nairobi) looking for a lift to Namibia. Go down to the Falls for a look. Very impressive, pictures don’t really convey the volume of water, narrowness and depth of the gorge. Still a lot of water, but spray not too heavy to obscure the view, although you don’t see along the full length. Come back and have a few beers in the campsite bar then into Explorers for some more with a pizza in between. Is a major session, but I stop drinking early so get through OK. Simon departs from the restaurant and is not seen again.

Decide to go to Zambia to stop us from drinking too early. Formalities quite straightforward. Go across the bridge and get some views from there. Can’t get a decent exchange rate so don’t buy anything, then along the Knife Edge. Wet, wet, wet. Can get really close to the edge and actually watch droplets of water going up. Get soaked going across the little bridge and from there it is raining. Dramatic views down into the gorge but don’t hang around. Back into the sun to dry off. View across the upstream river very nice as well, then climb down into the boiling pot before returning. Have lunch in the Gorge restaurant then a few slow beers in Explorers watching M-Net Sport before back to the campsite for BBQ steaks and potatoes. Back to Explorers for the evening, more life than before. The Lowriders have their vegetables spiced with special herbs which results in a slightly detached evening for them.

The day revolves around lunch at the Vic Falls hotel. A buffet lunch, eat as much as you like for Z$45. Reasonable value and don’t eat for the rest of the day. Spend the evening in Explorers bar again after watching the British Grand Prix on M-Net (shame for Damon Hill, killed by Murray Walker’s curse). The bar has a ski resort cliqueyness to it, except it is the rafting crowd who frequent it cruising in with helmets, paddles, lifejackets etc. Its novelty wears thin quite quickly.

Time to tackle some of the jobs, but replacing the rear spring bushes turns into a major undertaking as the bushes are very tight. But with Kev’s help get it done eventually. Simon checks fluid levels, so only really want to do an oil change and fuel filter change before we go.

Write some postcards but am not really in the mood for socialising - am getting travel weary and could do with pressing on to Namibia, but Kev wants to stay and watch the Aussie Versus NZ rugby next Saturday. I feel the time pressure more than the others. They all have their afternoon beers, smoke a joint and disappear off to Explorers for the evening. I write this listen to some classical music and enjoy some private time.

The Cowboys are going to be ready to leave tomorrow so Kev is prepared to head off. Do a shop and get provisions. Also get some personal odds and ends. Mark is coming with us but unfortunately there is no room for Al. Fill up the primary tank and change the fuel filter, also adjust the idle speed. Then off into see the falls again, still impressive, take some photos on the Nikon. Walk along the Zambeze bank for about 5 klicks to Elephant Hill hotel, have a coke, look at the view, then catch the courtesy bus back. Eat out at the Gorge then go to Explorers for the evening, spending the last of our Zim money.