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Rather disturbed night as the guy next to me kept encroaching on my space. Arrived in Harare at 06:20, just after sunrise. Beautiful morning. Getting on the domestic flight was a bit of chaos as people went through X-ray, then straight into the queue. Flight a little late, Fred arrived and sat next to me so we got the introductions over. Arrived Vic Fallsand had a laughing discussion about Scotland with the driver on the way to the lodge. No-one at the lodge knew what was going on, so we sat and stewed for a few minutes until John arrived, then got changed and met the rest of the group. Left about 12:00 to the airport first to drop John, then on down the road to Hwange. Countryside very green and humidity is high (60%). Lots of butterflies around, particularly small yellow ones, but also larger ones. Road got a bit rough but nothing bad, a few areas they were re-grading. All took turns in driving, got a little lost right at the very end, then took the road up the kopji, to the lodge. Got smacked in the face with a branch coming through the (open) window. Heat of the afternoon spent talking with Gavin, the professional hunter who has been running the place since '72. Just opening up again after the rains. Went for a game drive later but grass too green to see much, couple of impala, one black backed hyena. Numerous spiderwebs. On the way back, party got split and a few moments of concern until rescue party went out. Evening spent eating and drinking. | ||
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Fairly early start, breakfast at 07:00 and away just after. Beautiful early morning with mist shrouding the trees. Short drive to the border. Back into carnet routine. No problems and get through fairly quickly (without paying for Bots road licence). A little complicated as one vehicle doesn't have plates yet. Get through and stop to change drivers when John realises he has left his ruck-sack behind. Gets it back, while we take photos of the kids at the roadside. Then its the road to Neta - corner warning time. See one small antelope and lots of fresh elephant shit. Fred spotted elephant. Stop at cordon fence and more of a check, then as we drive off, officer thinks he's been photographed. Bit of grief. Arrive in Nata and John and Nick are there. Chat with some forward S.A. women who have travelled through the Kalahari. Sort one fridge then set off, fuel up, bottle store and off into the sand (avoiding donkeys etc on the tar). Isla drives first stretch, but doesn't like the sand, so take over after apporx 30 minutes. Press on as it is getting late. One stop to see zebra - big herd, one for lion tracks. Arrive in camp and the warden turns up five minutes later. Takes some time to get sorted and no firewood. Relaxed evening sorting out tents. Wind gets up and can smell the rain on the wind. Eat in the rain and retire.
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Rained continuously overnight. Perhaps not a lot but... Camp very humid and a lot of wet tents and clients. Still overcast and a certain Scottish feel to the weather. Very slow start as people get sorted out. When go to start the brand new vehicle - nothing. Try pushing, try towing - nothing. Analyse as flat battery (from running the fridge) and alarm/immobiliser (in the bush !). Go out with two vehicles and soon spot ostrich followed by a lone zebra and foal and Gemsbock. Very nice. Carry on and find a very large herd of zebra (1000 +) Back to camp for extended lunch break with change of battery to get 3rd vehicle back on-line - spot some poor maintenance. Still overcast, vey humid (70%). Set of fairly late in the other direction - see nothing. Do a circuit off road and stop to get some photos. Stop on way back for sunset. Beautiful. Absolute. Back to camp and Camos is dressed in black and white waiters uniform. Classic. Bush shower in the dark and settle down foir the evening. | ||
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Better look to the day; sky clearing. Get organised reasonably quickly for an 08:30 start. Get lead with Nick. Have just got started when spot the lionesses again. Spend a few minutes with them, they're cool, the younger watching as the other drifts on. Keep moving and meet the zebra herd. Reckon on 3000 +. Huge herd. See a number of separate steinbock, a couple of tortoises, lots of birds. Vultures are on the thermals. Couple of hartebeasts. Roads get quite wet, but all high range. Make one mistake. Stop at some old bushmen wells and feed the spiders. Stop at the locals village, buy some basketwork and wood, past Jack's camp heading for a large baobab - seven sisters - oldest tree in Africa, 4500 years old. Have lunch without cutlery or crockery. Drive back, reversing the route and seeing a variety of game including jackal, a number of different birds and the zebra herd. Isla gets stuck on the wrong route and Fred drives it out to great acclaim. Back in camp in time for showers before sunset. Conversation over dinner turns to Fred's concern about pneumonia and burial in Landrovers... | ||
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Wake up to hear Fred calling Nick - he's seen a lion from the camp, on April 1st... Bob offers him a choice of his T shirts, either 'Rest when you're dead' or 'Another day above ground'. Break camp and get away by 09:00. Bit of a split in duties. Driving with Erik and Bob. Generally OK, but a few moments of concern from Erik. Some elephant spore on the road. Stop at Game Office, then cross Boteti river bed and get on to a good dirt road (white dirt). Make good time to Rakops and stock up - skip on the fuel. Get clear and head towards Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Some sticky patches, but good grip underneath. Spot some springbok and assorted other antelope on the route. Check in at the Game warden office and head for camp (Deception 2), for a late lunch. Fred has found it tough driving with Chuck and Isla. | ||
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Very slow start, day overcast but dry. Have a cooked breakfast, then move out on a game drive. Head South, but before getting to the cut, Nick spots a chameleon. Drive South down Deception Valley, warthog, Gemsbock, springbok, ground squirrel, meercats and many different birds. Get so far, then turn back. Clud has burnt off and is getting quite hot (35° C plus). Come back and find side road to Deception Pan. Have a short walk on the pan, still quite wet. Stop at the airstrip and check out the Owen's camp. Nice place, cool and shady. Back to camp for lunch to find my gear is wet froma leaking water can. Mammal book a bit damaged, but otherwise OK. Chill out a bit for the afternoon, then go for a drive with Fred - on our own. Go up to Leopard Pan and Sunday. Have promised to be back before dark, so turn round at the campsite, in case following the loop takes too much time. Spotted one jackal on the road and spent a few minutes with it. Lovely light as the sun goes down, drive quickly to get back at the promised time. Have a shower and get the tent up before it is full dark. Mixed grill and apple fritters for dinner. As am preparing for be, can see lightning lighting up the sky in the distance. | ||
Up at 06:30 for 07:00 start. Same route as yesterday. See a lot of jackal on the plains together with a number of Gemsbock. Light very flat though and quite cool. Visit Leopard and Sunday pans, but nothing special. Get back for breakfast before it starts to break up and clear. Get sorted and Fred and I take one vehicle out to get filled up with water. Have used a lot of water in the past couple of days. Driving out see a number (four) separate steinbock and coming back see a Kudu cow on the road, then a bull following. Ostrich lame at the side of the road. Back in camp the beer situation is getting critical; when Chuck takes one of them as 'interest' (for money we exchanged), it is not good for my temper. Afternoon drive has a couple of interesting sightings, including a herd of eight wildebeest, five bat eared foxes (watching and pouncing on insects) and a pouff adder by the road side. Have a beer watching the sun go down, then back to camp. The older part of the group cluster in Eroik's tent and eventually we are all there drinking gin. Evening meal is stroganoff and sit up with Nick, John and Erik, discussing what Erik expected of the trip. Whisky gets hit a bit more. | ||
6 o'clock start and takes two hours to break camp. Get lead and Bob takes us back to the gate. Dump some un-eaten meat which had thawed, then head up along the vet fence. Sandy track, but not bad, high box, 3 or 4. Pass one overland truck heading in. On way out disturbed family of ostrich and Nick has to get out to head them off. Good game viewing. Get to ... and get through the fence despite still carrying meat and with an expired permit. Back on the tar and hit Maun about 12:15. Straight to the Duck (New Duck) for a beer and lunch. Then take bvehicles out to John's agent to dump all the gear (Fred and I help, the rest stay in town). Return and visit General Trading Company, buy a T shirt, the others a bit more. Don't see Maun at all before heading for the airport. Fly up to X at 16:00. Nice flight, quite low, but don't see much. Are met and go for a game drive. Quite near landing strip, but then see Elephant, hippo, crocodile, Impala, red lechwe, water buck, family group of giraffes and about 8 lionesses. All the game is very tame. Get to camp about 18:00. Lovely camp - bit of luxury. | ||
06:00 call, even I am a little late for the 06:30 start, but it is 07:05 before everyone is ready. Slow start as is overcast again (slight rain at dawn). Guide gets a radio call and heads off to the leopard. Two cats, mother and approx 16 month old cub. Moving about so get different views, but light a bit low for good shots. Lovely annimals, the cub a bit nervous with the trucks around. Stay for 10-15 minutes then leave them in relative peace. Move on and spot numerous game during the course of the drive. Red lechwe, impala, hippo, zebra, and at the end, a solitary lion. Ouzt in the sun to begin with, but soon moves into shade. At a drink stop, Chuck finds the guide paid 40 pula for his shoes. Chuck paid 140 for similar at GTC... Back to the camp for brunch at 11:00. Good cooked brunch. Chill out until 15:00, read my bookand wander the camp. Watch and listen to the birdlife. Have ice tea at 15:00 and then head out on the boats. Spot a couple of otters and a couple of baby crocs. Head up into the main channel, where all the water came from. Stopped briefly, then came back at speed, were about 5km from camp on the GPS. Stopped for sunset photos then back to find John, Nick and Rod waiting for us. Its Cosmos' bag that Fred has ended up with. Amadeaus the hippo comes to visit in the evening as I'm dressing for dinner and marks his territory on our balcony. Fred in hysterics as I beat a hasty retreat. Over dinner, the manager talks about his time fighting in the Rhodesain war. | ||
Get up at 07:00 to a desserted camp. Help myself to breakfast and listen/watch the birdlife. Get packed and ready for 09:00 start. Vehicles arrive and we settle up. Get my gear together, but can't find my fleece jacket (with Swiss Army knife in pocket). Vehicles are very full so it may just be hidden. Set out as lead with Erik driving. One deepish water splash, but nothing serios. Quite pretty along the riverside. Stop at junction to let the others catch up and pickup goes past at speed. Nearly takes John (with the trailer) out. Carry on. Lunch stop in the vehicles as park vehicle goes past. Stop and check in at gate - takes quite a while. See a couple of elephant during the day in a mud hollow and one or two others during the trip. Not a lot spotted. Problems finding the campsite, partly because there is a white local (illegally) parked nearby. Set up camp quite quickly, but no sign of fleece, or whisky. Chuck pumps Rod for info on the various countries and also his experiences in the Rhodesian war. | ||
Was going to be a 05:30 start, but delayed 06:00 as still very dark. Lovely clear night and no dew. Get away by 07:00 heading for the marsh. Rod gets Ilsa to navigate and end up back on the main road doing U turns. Not impressed - I can get lost on my own, I don't need a guide to do that. See one (tail-end charlie) of a large (100) elephant herd. Get back in the right area - see some fresh lion spoor and meet a large mixed herd of zebra, giraffe and impala. Small groups of wildebeest and tsebebe also around. Drive back for brunch at 11:00. Feeling very tired, but putting roof tent up is a hassle, so doze in the back seta, read a book to fill in siesta time. Back out about 16:00 and visit the bushman paintings. Stop for a couple of elephants, then find a spot for sundowners. Not feeling my best in the evening, bit of heartburn. Hyena around the camp at night, but only actually see one briefly. | ||
Cold overnight and 5.2 deg C at sun-up. Feeling very lethargic and its 09:00 before we get away. Road very mixedd from sand to corrugated dirt to broken stone, but all high boc stuff. Stop once for provisions and have a late lunch at camp. Drive along the Chobe river is beautiful but spoilt by the sight of cows grazing on the Namibian side. Nice shady campsite (no. 5 camp) but plagued with a lot of flies. Humidity is low here - off the scale. See one buffalo crosssing the road as we arrive. Take two vehicles out for afternoon drive as John has to go to Kasane to replace some trailer damaged provisions. Don't see a lot one the drive, one herd of elephants with attendant, hopeful, male. Some warthog in the public campsite, giraffe down by the riverside. Back to camp to get ready for Fred's birthday party - fancy dress. Most make some sort of effort, but material is limited. | ||
Usual slow start. Am still not feeling 100%, neck a bit sore and feel nauseous. Get away by 09:00 and join John, leaving Eric to drive 'my' truck. Good game viewing on the way out, lots of crocs basking, buffalo wallowing and hippos doing their stuff. See some pu pou (?) or was it lechwe> Leave park, have a brief stop in Kasane and get to the border about 11:00, no problems getting through despite Eric wandering about the customs office. When get to Vic falls John drops me at the clinic for a check. Phone later and blood est is negative, so don't bother with the Fansidar which has been prescribed. Back to lodge to check in, have lunch and collect my stuff. John has a message from Maun - no fleece. | ||
Fred heads off for his boogie board trip at 07:20. I elect to skip rafting and breakfast at 09:00. Head into town afterwards and go along the Falls. Some dry views and can see alot of the fall line, but very very wet towards the Zambian side. Back to lodge to dry out and have lunch, then back to do some shopping. Get some Zimbabalooba stuff and some teak masks. Probably paid to much Z$450 for two masks and Z$250 for the 3rd were well received. Decided to check about shipping them back, but would cost US$ 130 (Z$1300). Get them packed for Z$50. Back to lodge to hear about Fred's exploits then meet rest of group for dinner. Erik has been on a booze cruise, so is on form. Head to Explorers the Downtime. Game drive before and after Downtime and John f=gets very close to an elephant when he decides to check on the freshness of the droppings. Also elephant on road on way in by taxi. Get to bed about 03:30. | ||
Alarm goes at 06:50. ugh. Get up showered and breakfast to catch 07:45 courtesy bus to town. Wait at Shearwater to get taken across to Zambia for microlight flight. Bit concerned flight will be cancelled as is starting to blow a bit. But we all fly. Wonderful views from up there (2000ft). The microlight is a lot more substantial than I expected, exposed yes, but not too bad. Have 15 min flight which is ample to see all of the falls. Back and wait as rest get their turn, then return to lodge? comes back with us for lunch. Leaves quickly afterwards. Erik and Bob leave at 11:30 so say out goddbyes. Try to sleep early afternoon, but a troupe of baboons are trashing the balcony above. Leave at 15:30 and slowly make our way back. Check in at Harare is slowed as Chuck and Isla have 30kg too much. Get away without paying US$ 500. Four hour wait in departure lounge then sleep most of flight to London. Arrive on time. Do some shopping in town, but not too active. |
Last Changed 6th July 2000 (Created); 7th Oct 2009 (ported and completed)