Libya

Journal Entries Remarks

Day 1 Monday 27th December 1999

Despite all the concerns, arrive safely in Tripoli. Check in for the flight is totally normal, with no menetion of visas. Flight leaves about 10 minutes early and takes two and a half hours down through Italy and across the Med. Arrive Tripoli airport at approx 01:00 CET, which is 02:00 local. Sure enough, there is no-one waiting for us, so wander on to the immigration hall. There find another of the TTLO crowd, and in time we are eleven. 'Wait another five minutes.', as the visas are issued, stamped, checked etc. Then hand baggage goes through X-ray. Philip has two bottles of champagne, which results in another 30 minute delay. Eventually get to the hotel, Babel Bachus, and check in at 05:00

Our helper is very vague, don't think he really understands any of the questions. So currently am sitting in the sun writing this. The rest of the group wait for a 10:00 pick up, which I think is tomorrow... Hotel is fine and, from what I have seen, Tripoli also. Numerous pictures of Gadaffi around, staring clear eyed into the future. Eventually one of the group contacts WINZRIK and he promises to ring back in 10 minutes... As we wait another of the group finds a bank and we all change a little at the official rate $20 for 9 LD.

By 13:30 we are getting hungry and 4 decide to go it alone. WINZRIK turns up shortly after and takes us to a restaurant in town. Good 4 course meal, humous, soup, kebab (chicken and lamb), fruit plus tea. 5 of the seven, including myself, elect to walk home. Make our way through the town visiting a pharmacy and the PO. Then through the old town, Philip is off at speed and we struggle to keep up and the group together. Wander through some very run down areas, typical souk/old town, unmade roads, rubbish in the street. Make our way back to the hotel by 17:00. Rather mediocre chicken and chips at the hotel. Go to my room at 21:00, read for an hour and check the news on BBC SW.

Day 2 Tuesday 28th December 1999

Tour of Tripoli

For once the guide waits for us. Leave shortly after 09:00 by bus to the hotel of the Italians. Walk from there to the arch of Marcus Aurelius. Italian guide gives detailed explanation - In Italian. Nice arch, although much of the cladding has gone. Visit next door mosque, then head back to the museum. Fair. General descriptions in Arabic/English. Guided group slows markedly when they get to the Roman era rooms. From there go to the museum of the house of the president in the old town. Courtyard basis, three floors, Ground floor rooms very narrow. Chariot on the second floor - how did it get there? Lunch at the same restaruant - almost the same menu. Walk back again following a similar route. Evening go by bus to another restaruant in the commercial district. Food OK, but not of great quality and not fish, as we expected from a popular fish restaurant. Drive back is slow, as town is now heaving - Ramadam.

Day 3 Wednesday 29th December 1999

All day trip to Leptus Magna. 08:30 start, slightly delayed and then more so when we pick up the Italians. Drive is about 80 minutes. Arrive in Leptis with our guide and ,after a toilet stop (0.25 LD), head in to the main arch (Septimus Severus). Turn right there, following signs for the baths. Large complex with cold, warm and hot rooms. Pipes for the hot air visible. Check out the Roman latrines. Then through the sports field to the Nypheum, Byzantine church and the new forum. The forum has lots of piles of stone, looks like a builders yard. Through that to the Old Forum, then at the sea, turn back past the Temple of Seraphis. Got to the Theatre, but continue as are late for lunch. Quick lunch, then back to the arch, turn left and go down to the East gate. From there, to the hunting baths (restored). Have a short tour. Then return to the Theatre and spend 30 minutes there. Everyone is inspired by the theatrical presence; are welcomed by two Italian tourists singing an aria. Return past the arch to visit the museum. Well laid out and most signs are Arabic/English. The rest of the group leave me behind, but catch up when get to the boring (new) stuff.

Back in the bus for a short trip to the Circus. Again the amphitheatre is well preserved and impressive, although there is a lot of 'rubble' and restoration work. The track next to it is hardly recognisable and in danger of being lost to the sea. No photos allowed looking West, as a pipeline is in the way - had taken the photos before Alex pointed this out. Back on the bus at 17:00, return to the hotel for dinner. Plans for tomorrow are unknown.

Day 4 Thursday 30th December 1999

Am woken by Dirk at 03:20. Breakfast at 03:30, leave at 04:00. Pack quickly - not sure if he is serious. Go down and everybody is there, check out, get passport back. Then wait in the bus for the two Italians from our hotel. Collect the other Italians and on to the airport.

Expected chaos.

Tickets are in Arabic, so generally only have the first name. Give up and just use any ticket. On to the plane about 06:30, leave approx 07:00. Plane is Fokker 28, fairly old, but it gets us to Sebha just as the sun rises, shortly after 08:00 Bus is waiting for us and we are soon on our way to Germa (or close by), where we dis-embark at the WINZRIK compound, and wait, and wait... 11:15 and still no clue of what the plan is Busses eventually turn up about 14:00, by which time lunch has been arranged, so wait some more and leave approx 15:00. Drive along the tarmac for 20 mins or so, then off into the dunes, where the dune colour changes from Golden to Silver. Stop at the first climb to reduce tyre pressures and take some photos, then on into the desert. Couple of stops on route and one short steep dune, where we have to get out of the bus, but otherwise a fairly simple drive. Can't see much of the route, as the bus has no forward windows. Some beautiful scenery on the way. Come to 1st oasis, but drive on getting to the lake Gaberon (actually was ....) as the day is closing. Lots of people out taking photos.
We dis-embark, wait a few minutes to see what the plan is... There is no plan; so we find empty tents and move in. Sand floor so find ground sheets. Sorted. The Italians are in chaos; their tents aren't up. They spend the remaining hour of daylight faffing. Mustafe has resigned from the day, and does nothing. We meet up with TTLO folk and adopt them. Get dinner there and watch the folklore festival for a while. Then go to find our own fire. Fathe finds us and brings food, macaroni and meat, so we eat again. Retire about 22:00 as is getting cold. Stars are magnificent, but difficulkt to recognise, Orion is on his side and there are expanses of sky I don't know.

Day 5 Friday 31st December 1999

Fairly disturbed night, but that's not a surprise. Fairly cold as well, but the combination of sleeping bag and down waistcost are enough. Get up about 08:00, as the sun rises. The Italians are already awake, having spent the night with only the tents for shelter. Have breakfast with TTLO. Their 'lost' trucks have arrived overnight, so they can get more organised.

Go for a walk (and a crap) before gets too hot. Beautiful area, but heavily explored. Have to walk for a kilometre or so before getting to less visited areas. Come back, scratch my ankle on some dry wood - teach me to wear sandals rather than boots. Clean it and dress it. Nothing happened at camp, but wind is getting up. Shelter in the tent, and wait for lunch. Have lunch with TTLO, tinned salab Nicossaise - convenient, but not great.

Back to the tent and doze until about 16:30, then go for a walk around the lake. Light is flat, but take some photos when the sun comes out briefly. Have dinner about 20:00 and the festival starts at 21:00. Begins with local musicians which is fine, but becomes repetitive. Lifted by the singer from the band getting involved. The male voice is not so good. At 22:00, the band does their stint. Very good, love the singers voice. Excellent four piece rock band. Their name sounded like Unseco, Luna ?? (Lunascape). Then the sax player has a go - very modern type, not classic sax, but goes on too long - no encore. This takes us to 23:45 and the DJ plays music. Midnight comes and goes, with no mention until 00:30. Some fireworks going of in the area. Music continues with a string/violin player off to the left. Have been at the fire all evening and stay there until 02:00. Skies are clear again, not perfect, but good. Music continues until 06:00, some good, bit of Led Zeppelin, but also some techno. style, which for me is OK in small doses, but always goes on too long.

Day 6 Saturday 1st January 2000

Wake up about 08:30 to find the sky overcast and the day cold. Get up about 09:00 and have a first coffee with the Italians. Wander round until TTLO wakes - probably around 10:00 and have a breakfast with them Nothing much happens apart from the change of departure time. It goes from 15:00 to 14:30 to 10:00. Evetually settles at 13:00 Get packed and carry the luggage to the bus... On the way spot the singer from last night, so go back to thank her and find the name of the band - Lunascape, album out in March. Also spot the British contingent and have a brief chat. - they only arrived at 23:20 last night. Their desert stage took four days rather than the two planned. That apart it sounds like standard African hassle. See the Italians have arrived, so go back to the bus. Tom and I end up loading the bagge on the roof and we get away at 13:45. Takes one hour out to where the tyres are inflated, then another 30 minutes to the tarmac. Then head for Germa and are allowed 15 minutes. Don't understand the site. Lots of crumbling walls - need to find out more about it. From there head back to WINZRIK for lunch at 16:00. Have fears here, but it is actually organised. They had cooked it at Gaberoun, and just needed heating, so are away easily by 17:00. Is then 90 minutes to Sebha. Arrive to flight is scheduled for 22:00, so are 2 and a half hours early. Wait in the cafeteria and read. At 21:00 are called to hand in hold luggage, then back to the cafe. Then an hour later, are moved into a holding area, where a manifest is drawn up by Fahte, then through X-ray, then into the departure lounge. It is now 24:00 and no sign of any aircraft. Baggage is visible outside, sitting on the tarmac in the rain (Yes, it has been raining lightly since 21:00) Eventually, plane arrives and the crowd pours out. Have to identify our bags, then claim a seat. I am about last, but get one of the emergency exits - would have thought they would be popular on 1st Jan 2000 (even if is now 2nd Jan). Leave about 01:00. No announcements from flight crew, and in flight catering is a cup of coffee and a slice of plain cake. Tripoli by 03:00, hotel and bed by 04:15.

Day 7 Sunday 2nd January 2000

Wake at 08:30 and doze until 09:00. Get a call at 09:10, telling me it is now 09:00. Didn't ask for a wake up call. Breakfast and are ready to leave at 10:05. Alex is sick from the cold, so we are ten today. Pick up the Italians, then visit the WINZRIK office - problem with tickets for the Italians. Leave Tripoli about 11:00 and drive to Sabrata. Street are wet, flooded in areas and some heavy showers come through. Get to Sabrata about 12:30, as the sun comes out. Have two hours to visit, which is fine without any guide. The place is deserted and for much of the time, I am on my own. Theatre is impressive. Am surprised by the number of mosaics still in place and no special efforts to protect them. Mosaics from the church are in the museum (extra 5D if I take a photo - so I didn't). Cover the full site in a general way. Rain starts as I head for lunch. Good restaurant, but still have problems, eating chunks, rather than cuts of meat. Have another hours wait as the Italians get sorted. Have a chat with Fabio, the Italian organiser. WINZRIK charge $980 for the Libyan ground service (ie not flight). Also festival site was not Gaberoun, but a smaller lake. Gaberoun has much better facilities. He reckons, changing at the border, to get 170 LD per $100, and at the hotel 190 LD/$100. The bank rate is 45LD/$100 The site was actually Um al Maa (Mother of the Waters).

Go back to the hotel and meet again at 20:30, to go out to the fish restaurant again. This time it is fish - have our stories been listened to? Get back to the hotel in time to pack and rest for an hour or so.

Day 8 Monday 3rd January 2000

The pick up time is 01:00. By 01:30 concern is mounting. By 01:45 we are starting to arrange taxis, when the bus arrives. Get awayby 02:00, but have a tour of Tripoli first. Airport at 02:30 and are encouraged through check in. Then have to get 3LD for departure tax, ticket is stamped, then exit form is stamped, then both with passport are presented, and the passport is stamped. Then put hand bagge through X-ray. Then int departure hall, through X-ray into the gate and finally on the aircraft. Are off at 04:00 and I have three seats to myself. Manage to get some sleep before arriving at FRA. Say our good-byes and get the Airliner to Darmstadt. Am in the office by 07:30

	Journal Entries	Remarks
	Day 1 Monday 27th December 1999 Despite all the concerns, arrive safely in Tripoli. Check in for the flight is totally normal, with no menetion of visas. Flight leaves about 10 minutes early and takes two and a half hours down through Italy and across the Med. Arrive Tripoli airport at approx 01:00 CET, which is 02:00 local. Sure enough, there is no-one waiting for us, so wander on to the immigration hall. There find another of the TTLO crowd, and in time we are eleven. 'Wait another five minutes.', as the visas are issued, stamped, checked etc. Then hand baggage goes through X-ray. Philip has two bottles of champagne, which results in another 30 minute delay. Eventually get to the hotel, Babel Bachus, and check in at 05:00 Our helper is very vague, don't think he really understands any of the questions. So currently am sitting in the sun writing this. The rest of the group wait for a 10:00 pick up, which I think is tomorrow... Hotel is fine and, from what I have seen, Tripoli also. Numerous pictures of Gadaffi around, staring clear eyed into the future. Eventually one of the group contacts WINZRIK and he promises to ring back in 10 minutes... As we wait another of the group finds a bank and we all change a little at the official rate $20 for 9 LD. By 13:30 we are getting hungry and 4 decide to go it alone. WINZRIK turns up shortly after and takes us to a restaurant in town. Good 4 course meal, humous, soup, kebab (chicken and lamb), fruit plus tea. 5 of the seven, including myself, elect to walk home. Make our way through the town visiting a pharmacy and the PO. Then through the old town, Philip is off at speed and we struggle to keep up and the group together. Wander through some very run down areas, typical souk/old town, unmade roads, rubbish in the street. Make our way back to the hotel by 17:00. Rather mediocre chicken and chips at the hotel. Go to my room at 21:00, read for an hour and check the news on BBC SW.
	Day 2 Tuesday 28th December 1999 Tour of Tripoli For once the guide waits for us. Leave shortly after 09:00 by bus to the hotel of the Italians. Walk from there to the arch of Marcus Aurelius. Italian guide gives detailed explanation - In Italian. Nice arch, although much of the cladding has gone. Visit next door mosque, then head back to the museum. Fair. General descriptions in Arabic/English. Guided group slows markedly when they get to the Roman era rooms. From there go to the museum of the house of the president in the old town. Courtyard basis, three floors, Ground floor rooms very narrow. Chariot on the second floor - how did it get there? Lunch at the same restaruant - almost the same menu. Walk back again following a similar route. Evening go by bus to another restaruant in the commercial district. Food OK, but not of great quality and not fish, as we expected from a popular fish restaurant. Drive back is slow, as town is now heaving - Ramadam.
	Day 3 Wednesday 29th December 1999 All day trip to Leptus Magna. 08:30 start, slightly delayed and then more so when we pick up the Italians. Drive is about 80 minutes. Arrive in Leptis with our guide and ,after a toilet stop (0.25 LD), head in to the main arch (Septimus Severus). Turn right there, following signs for the baths. Large complex with cold, warm and hot rooms. Pipes for the hot air visible. Check out the Roman latrines. Then through the sports field to the Nypheum, Byzantine church and the new forum. The forum has lots of piles of stone, looks like a builders yard. Through that to the Old Forum, then at the sea, turn back past the Temple of Seraphis. Got to the Theatre, but continue as are late for lunch. Quick lunch, then back to the arch, turn left and go down to the East gate. From there, to the hunting baths (restored). Have a short tour. Then return to the Theatre and spend 30 minutes there. Everyone is inspired by the theatrical presence; are welcomed by two Italian tourists singing an aria. Return past the arch to visit the museum. Well laid out and most signs are Arabic/English. The rest of the group leave me behind, but catch up when get to the boring (new) stuff. Back in the bus for a short trip to the Circus. Again the amphitheatre is well preserved and impressive, although there is a lot of 'rubble' and restoration work. The track next to it is hardly recognisable and in danger of being lost to the sea. No photos allowed looking West, as a pipeline is in the way - had taken the photos before Alex pointed this out. Back on the bus at 17:00, return to the hotel for dinner. Plans for tomorrow are unknown.
	Day 4 Thursday 30th December 1999 Am woken by Dirk at 03:20. Breakfast at 03:30, leave at 04:00. Pack quickly - not sure if he is serious. Go down and everybody is there, check out, get passport back. Then wait in the bus for the two Italians from our hotel. Collect the other Italians and on to the airport. Expected chaos. Tickets are in Arabic, so generally only have the first name. Give up and just use any ticket. On to the plane about 06:30, leave approx 07:00. Plane is Fokker 28, fairly old, but it gets us to Sebha just as the sun rises, shortly after 08:00 Bus is waiting for us and we are soon on our way to Germa (or close by), where we dis-embark at the WINZRIK compound, and wait, and wait... 11:15 and still no clue of what the plan is Busses eventually turn up about 14:00, by which time lunch has been arranged, so wait some more and leave approx 15:00. Drive along the tarmac for 20 mins or so, then off into the dunes, where the dune colour changes from Golden to Silver. Stop at the first climb to reduce tyre pressures and take some photos, then on into the desert. Couple of stops on route and one short steep dune, where we have to get out of the bus, but otherwise a fairly simple drive. Can't see much of the route, as the bus has no forward windows. Some beautiful scenery on the way. Come to 1st oasis, but drive on getting to the lake Gaberon (actually was ....) as the day is closing. Lots of people out taking photos. We dis-embark, wait a few minutes to see what the plan is... There is no plan; so we find empty tents and move in. Sand floor so find ground sheets. Sorted. The Italians are in chaos; their tents aren't up. They spend the remaining hour of daylight faffing. Mustafe has resigned from the day, and does nothing. We meet up with TTLO folk and adopt them. Get dinner there and watch the folklore festival for a while. Then go to find our own fire. Fathe finds us and brings food, macaroni and meat, so we eat again. Retire about 22:00 as is getting cold. Stars are magnificent, but difficulkt to recognise, Orion is on his side and there are expanses of sky I don't know.
	Day 5 Friday 31st December 1999 Fairly disturbed night, but that's not a surprise. Fairly cold as well, but the combination of sleeping bag and down waistcost are enough. Get up about 08:00, as the sun rises. The Italians are already awake, having spent the night with only the tents for shelter. Have breakfast with TTLO. Their 'lost' trucks have arrived overnight, so they can get more organised. Go for a walk (and a crap) before gets too hot. Beautiful area, but heavily explored. Have to walk for a kilometre or so before getting to less visited areas. Come back, scratch my ankle on some dry wood - teach me to wear sandals rather than boots. Clean it and dress it. Nothing happened at camp, but wind is getting up. Shelter in the tent, and wait for lunch. Have lunch with TTLO, tinned salab Nicossaise - convenient, but not great. Back to the tent and doze until about 16:30, then go for a walk around the lake. Light is flat, but take some photos when the sun comes out briefly. Have dinner about 20:00 and the festival starts at 21:00. Begins with local musicians which is fine, but becomes repetitive. Lifted by the singer from the band getting involved. The male voice is not so good. At 22:00, the band does their stint. Very good, love the singers voice. Excellent four piece rock band. Their name sounded like Unseco, Luna ?? (Lunascape). Then the sax player has a go - very modern type, not classic sax, but goes on too long - no encore. This takes us to 23:45 and the DJ plays music. Midnight comes and goes, with no mention until 00:30. Some fireworks going of in the area. Music continues with a string/violin player off to the left. Have been at the fire all evening and stay there until 02:00. Skies are clear again, not perfect, but good. Music continues until 06:00, some good, bit of Led Zeppelin, but also some techno. style, which for me is OK in small doses, but always goes on too long.
	Day 6 Saturday 1st January 2000 Wake up about 08:30 to find the sky overcast and the day cold. Get up about 09:00 and have a first coffee with the Italians. Wander round until TTLO wakes - probably around 10:00 and have a breakfast with them Nothing much happens apart from the change of departure time. It goes from 15:00 to 14:30 to 10:00. Evetually settles at 13:00 Get packed and carry the luggage to the bus... On the way spot the singer from last night, so go back to thank her and find the name of the band - Lunascape, album out in March. Also spot the British contingent and have a brief chat. - they only arrived at 23:20 last night. Their desert stage took four days rather than the two planned. That apart it sounds like standard African hassle. See the Italians have arrived, so go back to the bus. Tom and I end up loading the bagge on the roof and we get away at 13:45. Takes one hour out to where the tyres are inflated, then another 30 minutes to the tarmac. Then head for Germa and are allowed 15 minutes. Don't understand the site. Lots of crumbling walls - need to find out more about it. From there head back to WINZRIK for lunch at 16:00. Have fears here, but it is actually organised. They had cooked it at Gaberoun, and just needed heating, so are away easily by 17:00. Is then 90 minutes to Sebha. Arrive to flight is scheduled for 22:00, so are 2 and a half hours early. Wait in the cafeteria and read. At 21:00 are called to hand in hold luggage, then back to the cafe. Then an hour later, are moved into a holding area, where a manifest is drawn up by Fahte, then through X-ray, then into the departure lounge. It is now 24:00 and no sign of any aircraft. Baggage is visible outside, sitting on the tarmac in the rain (Yes, it has been raining lightly since 21:00) Eventually, plane arrives and the crowd pours out. Have to identify our bags, then claim a seat. I am about last, but get one of the emergency exits - would have thought they would be popular on 1st Jan 2000 (even if is now 2nd Jan). Leave about 01:00. No announcements from flight crew, and in flight catering is a cup of coffee and a slice of plain cake. Tripoli by 03:00, hotel and bed by 04:15.
	Day 7 Sunday 2nd January 2000 Wake at 08:30 and doze until 09:00. Get a call at 09:10, telling me it is now 09:00. Didn't ask for a wake up call. Breakfast and are ready to leave at 10:05. Alex is sick from the cold, so we are ten today. Pick up the Italians, then visit the WINZRIK office - problem with tickets for the Italians. Leave Tripoli about 11:00 and drive to Sabrata. Street are wet, flooded in areas and some heavy showers come through. Get to Sabrata about 12:30, as the sun comes out. Have two hours to visit, which is fine without any guide. The place is deserted and for much of the time, I am on my own. Theatre is impressive. Am surprised by the number of mosaics still in place and no special efforts to protect them. Mosaics from the church are in the museum (extra 5D if I take a photo - so I didn't). Cover the full site in a general way. Rain starts as I head for lunch. Good restaurant, but still have problems, eating chunks, rather than cuts of meat. Have another hours wait as the Italians get sorted. Have a chat with Fabio, the Italian organiser. WINZRIK charge $980 for the Libyan ground service (ie not flight). Also festival site was not Gaberoun, but a smaller lake. Gaberoun has much better facilities. He reckons, changing at the border, to get 170 LD per $100, and at the hotel 190 LD/$100. The bank rate is 45LD/$100 The site was actually Um al Maa (Mother of the Waters). Go back to the hotel and meet again at 20:30, to go out to the fish restaurant again. This time it is fish - have our stories been listened to? Get back to the hotel in time to pack and rest for an hour or so.
	Day 8 Monday 3rd January 2000 The pick up time is 01:00. By 01:30 concern is mounting. By 01:45 we are starting to arrange taxis, when the bus arrives. Get awayby 02:00, but have a tour of Tripoli first. Airport at 02:30 and are encouraged through check in. Then have to get 3LD for departure tax, ticket is stamped, then exit form is stamped, then both with passport are presented, and the passport is stamped. Then put hand bagge through X-ray. Then int departure hall, through X-ray into the gate and finally on the aircraft. Are off at 04:00 and I have three seats to myself. Manage to get some sleep before arriving at FRA. Say our good-byes and get the Airliner to Darmstadt. Am in the office by 07:30

Last Changed 15th May 2000 (Created); 28th Sept 2009 (ported)