Togo and Benin




Journal Entries Remarks

Day 88 Sunday 10th January 1993 202 Km

Sleep a little disturbed by the farmyard wildlife especially the rooster. On the road again about 08:00 and get to Denu at 08:30 where we spend most of our remaining Cedis. Got to the border passing the Kamuka truck and then got a bit of a confusing run around. To get the carnet stamped we were directed to a room which looked like a kitchen store full of empty beer crates and the official looked like a cleaner. She stamped the carnet OK but then we were told we had to have the form for another check... Got through and it got easier from there but was not too happy to find my carnet had been given to another ‘helper’ for processing.

Togo was a short country and it may have been because it was Sunday and not the general strike but was very quiet.

Number of bikes and motorbikes have increased dramatically.

Got into Benin fairly easily though had to pay a little over 2000 CFA for import duties. Got to the campsite mid afternoon. Looks very secure.

Day 89 Monday 11th January 1993 0 Km

Back on the rounds. To the bank of Africa first where we very quickly changed 2500FF travellers cheques. Then on to the Nigerian embassy, quite helpful but a case of returning at 14:30, pay if they are granted. Into town then for breakfast at the patisserie. Back to the campsite where The Girls have arrived but are not feeling well. Chat to some of the other travellers as I change the fuel filter. Quite clean and no sign of water.

Back to the embassy at 14:30 where we meet Rob & Simon. Visas approved. On into town where I got the desert print film developed. All OK and some quite good ones. Also hit the supermarket then back to the campsite.

Avocado and ground beef baguettes.

Day 90 Tuesday 12th January 1993 168 Km

A tiring day. Morning spent on a visit to Ganvie, the stilt village. Fascinating, the whole street market scene has been moved into pirogues so you have all the fruit sellers and even food stalls afloat. Villagers very much against ‘free’ photography but you got the feeling tourists are really an intrusion. 25,000 people in the village.

Got back to the campsite at 13:30, Mike very anxious to leave despite the suggestion we could go to Abomey and Alan and Paul head for Lagos by bush taxi. Decided to use the border crossing which is slightly inland and apart from interminable delays it was OK and we got through without having to pay. Was 18:30 by the time we were clear and then we hit a succession of checkpoints manned by different departments, police, intelligence, customs and immigration. The last being the worst as wanted to check everything including money. As was 19:15 by this stage paid $20 to keep going. Took a long time to get to Ikeja which we now realise is merely a suburb of Lagos. The roads are chaos with some traffic travelling without lights. Eventually got to the hotel at 22:00, rather late to be travelling in Nigeria.

Scenery is still very drab, especially as two stroke mopeds create an enveloping smog.

Fishermen casting their circular nets. The tourist shop. Goats and cats on little islands. The very elegant women hiding behind their hands at the sight of a camera. The village ‘spoilt’ by corrugated iron shacks. Tiny kids poling along huge pirogues.

Last Changed 14th August 1998 (Flags added); 22nd Sept 2009 (ported and restructured)